Bigsby - E String Popping out!

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dean111musicdean111music Frets: 278
edited August 2019 in Guitar
Hi

I played a gig last night with my newly modified gretsch 6228 duo jet. http://www.gretsch-talk.com/threads/6228-mods-complete-what-you-think.193759/#post-1185257

I have a Gotoh TOM Titanium with Towner bar and has never done this before but the E string kept popping out! i was probably more heavy handed than practicing at home and standing up may change the angle of my picking hand slightly. 

I'm playing with 10-46 Balanced Tension strings. My Towner Tension bar is on the lowest point, break angle is at a point where it shouldn't cause a problem.

Do i need to cut the slot bigger?

Or is it best to buy a Tru-Arc or similar Bar?
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72415
    Just deepen the groove slightly.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said:
    Just deepen the groove slightly.
    Thanks! what tool would i use? 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72415
    A nut file is ideal, but if you don’t have one they’re very expensive just to do one job.

    A model-maker’s needle file is probably the next best, or you could use a junior hacksaw blade if you hammer it flat first - otherwise it will make a double groove and the string will click from side to side.

    You don’t need to go very deep, just far enough that the sides of the groove are steep enough that the string won’t jump out. You’re unlikely to notice a change in the action.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7880
    Maybe tighten down the Towner a little more to create a bit more tension over the bridge, and jump up a set to to 11's.  almost all Gretsch players use 11's, it gives the tension over the bridge, and the guitar just prefers it. 
    I wouldn't butcher your bridge until you've explored other options.
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  • King85King85 Frets: 631
    I bought a set of the little welder tip cleaners and whilst they're not amazing they helped me tidy up the nut on my charvel and didn't cost much
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  • dean111musicdean111music Frets: 278
    edited August 2019
    TheMarlin said:
    Maybe tighten down the Towner a little more to create a bit more tension over the bridge, and jump up a set to to 11's.  almost all Gretsch players use 11's, it gives the tension over the bridge, and the guitar just prefers it. 
    I wouldn't butcher your bridge until you've explored other options.
    I did have a 0.52 on the E 

    10, 13.5, 17, 26, 35, 52

    Would going to 11's be that much better?

    It was still popping out and after closer inspection the A comes out too. 

    All Gretsch players rave about the Tru Arc SerpenTune bridges. You can get a low rider version for guitars with thumb screws.

    It might go down that route one day. Aluminium or Titanium would be my next decision. I have another gig tonight so might have to get the tools out 


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  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7880
    I always use 11’s, and have never had any problems with strings popping out of the saddles. 

    I love the Tru Ark Lowrider Serpentune, but the saddle groves are no deeper than your Tom. So you need to solve the problem before you replace the bridge.

    Mine is aluminium, but Titanium is worth the extra cost. https://imgur.com/a/OjMtyRq
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  • dean111musicdean111music Frets: 278
    edited August 2019
    TheMarlin said:
    I always use 11’s, and have never had any problems with strings popping out of the saddles. 

    I love the Tru Ark Lowrider Serpentune, but the saddle groves are no deeper than your Tom. So you need to solve the problem before you replace the bridge.

    Mine is aluminium, but Titanium is worth the extra cost. https://imgur.com/a/OjMtyRq
    thanks,

    I have just ordered some different strings. I normally got for Hex core strings (d'addario) but have purchased some round core DR and GHS strings. Hopefully will see an improvement before doing anything else. 

    I believe if you ordered directly you can get the grooves dug a little deeper! 

    So that pic is a tru arc serpertune?

    http://jefjamdesign.com/truarc/index1.html is this just a standard tru arc? I see on the f holes website you can order it with low rider, bigsby compensated (spacing) and sepertune or standard. 
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  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7880
    Yes, that one is a Serpentune lowrider.  In my opinion, as good a bridge as a Compton, if not better. 

    I do not like the standard Tru Ark.  I’ve had a standard Tru Ark on two guitars, and had to get rid.  The bridge just sat too high, and the only way to get the string height correct was to sand the bridge wooden base.  The Compton is designed to prevent that problem.  I’ve had lots of Comptons, never had a problem, am a big fan. 

    If if you have a floating bridge, the Compton Titanium is the bees knees. For a factory pinned bridge, Tru Ark Serpentune lowrider is the best. Though, Compton now do one for pinned bridges (Electromatic), though I’ve not tried it. 

    Thats just my personal experience.  Here is one of my Comptons.  https://imgur.com/a/lNTs0cX

    Classy looking bit of kit!
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  • TheMarlin said:
    Yes, that one is a Serpentune lowrider.  In my opinion, as good a bridge as a Compton, if not better. 

    I do not like the standard Tru Ark.  I’ve had a standard Tru Ark on two guitars, and had to get rid.  The bridge just sat too high, and the only way to get the string height correct was to sand the bridge wooden base.  The Compton is designed to prevent that problem.  I’ve had lots of Comptons, never had a problem, am a big fan. 

    If if you have a floating bridge, the Compton Titanium is the bees knees. For a factory pinned bridge, Tru Ark Serpentune lowrider is the best. Though, Compton now do one for pinned bridges (Electromatic), though I’ve not tried it. 

    Thats just my personal experience.  Here is one of my Comptons.  https://imgur.com/a/lNTs0cX

    Classy looking bit of kit!
    My guitar is 6228 so it’s like a Gibson where it has thumb screws to lower and raise the height. So what would you choice for that?
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  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7880
    I’d talk to both Tim at Tru Arc, and Wayne at Compton. Compton are easier to deal with, and their range is easier to understand.  Though, my Tru Arc Serpentune is my favourite bridge..

    I’m banned from Gretsch Talk (made a Trump joke, and the moderator banned me on the spot), what do the guys over there have to say I’m out of the loop on newer models.  

    Oh, BTW, who made your pick guard? Lovely work. 

    Cheers

    Marlin
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  • dean111musicdean111music Frets: 278
    edited August 2019
    Tru Arc and compton both seem popular and i guess its all personal preference. Don't think you can go wrong with either. 

    https://quickguards.com

    I ended up ordering 3 in different colours! Gold, Silver and what is currently on there Aged white. Amazing quality! Better than stock. Smoother finishing around the end and nicer finish. Paint doesn't come off!
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