Strat tremolo arm too stiff

lincolnblue · August 2019

My strat copy has the bridge flush with the body rather than floating, which is fine. However, the trem arm is very stiff. Is it literally as simple as removing a spring or do I then need to do any set up work?

There's four springs at the moment - if I take one out would I have to reposition the others so they re in line with the centre?

Funkfingers · August 2019

Do you refer to the freedom of the vibrato arm to rotate on its thread or to the amount of force required to apply vibrato to the strings using the bridge and arm?

Flush baseplate adjustment and high spring tension are often tell tale signs that the tuning stability of the vibrato system is not reliable. There is a tendency amongst inexperienced repairers to over-tighten in an attempt to make absolutely sure the guitar will hold pitch.

Yes, you can remove a tension spring or two and, then, re-adjust the spring tension to achieve a satisfactory balance. If the bridge baseplate tilts up relative to the top of the guitar body, you will have a bunch of other adjustments to make before your guitar will play in tune.

Frankly, for many of the lower priced brands out there, I would not bother.

ICBM · August 2019

Just remove one spring for now. You don't need to reposition the others, even if it looks odd - it makes no difference to the operation.

After that you may need to adjust the two large screws in the spring claw to set the bridge to the amount of float you want, from none (the bridge just touching the body) to about a tone pull-up range (roughly 2-3mm above the body at the back edge).

guitars4you · August 2019

Not sure what gauge of strings you are using as to the answer of 4 or 3 springs - However, it is possible to still have the base of the bridge flat against the body, as required, yet only a slight touch on the arm should be required for down pitch - So a case of finding that state of 'equilibrium' with string tension pulling one way and spring tension pulling the other - So it sounds like you need to remove 1 spring and maybe release the tension a touch, by 'undoing' the 2 screws on the claw - Best do just a bit, check, then repeat as required

Generally 3 springs should suffice for 9 or 10 gauge strings, to achieve 'easy' down pitch

3 springs and yes one in the centre and 2 on the wings for more of a symmetrical 'pattern' - Yet generally the 'claw' will have a slight angle to it, with 'more screwed in' on the bass string side

Hope that helps - any more info just ask

lincolnblue · August 2019

Thanks all.
Yes, it's the force required to push down on the bar that's the issue. I use guage 10 strings on the guitar.

I'll take one spring off then and then adjust the two screws. I guess if I do it just slightly, I'll not need to alter intonation etc?

Tuning stability is brilliant on it .

Funkfingers · August 2019

lincolnblue said:
Tuning stability is brilliant on it .

"It is now."

It might not be after adjustment. Good luck.

Maynehead · August 2019

Sounds like you can try taking a spring out (then move the remaining middle spring to the centre position).

You can then fine tune the trem tension by turning the tension screws (the 2 screws that attaches the spring "claw" to the guitar body). Make sure you turn both screws by the same amount each time to keep the claw parallel.

ICBM · August 2019

guitars4you said:

3 springs and yes one in the centre and 2 on the wings for more of a symmetrical 'pattern' - Yet generally the 'claw' will have a slight angle to it, with 'more screwed in' on the bass string side

It is generally, but it shouldn't be

.

It's a complete myth that there is, or should be, more tension on the bass side. As with the position of the springs, it makes no practical difference because the force of the springs is simply summed - there is no point in having one tighter than another.

Funkfingers · August 2019

ICBM said:
It's a complete myth that there is, or should be, more tension on the bass side.

+1

Some string manufacturers make available the loading tension for all of the gauges, on the most common scale lengths and at various tunings.

guitars4you · August 2019

lincolnblue said:

Thanks all.
Yes, it's the force required to push down on the bar that's the issue. I use guage 10 strings on the guitar.

I'll take one spring off then and then adjust the two screws. I guess if I do it just slightly, I'll not need to alter intonation etc?

Tuning stability is brilliant on it .

no need to adjust the saddle height or intonation, as the bridge base plate is still flat against the body

guitars4you · August 2019

ICBM said:

guitars4you said:

3 springs and yes one in the centre and 2 on the wings for more of a symmetrical 'pattern' - Yet generally the 'claw' will have a slight angle to it, with 'more screwed in' on the bass string side

It is generally, but it shouldn't be .

It's a complete myth that there is, or should be, more tension on the bass side. As with the position of the springs, it makes no practical difference because the force of the springs is simply summed - there is no point in having one tighter than another.

Not saying my way is better, wrong, right or otherwise - Yet just thinking about it, I have always done it this way - Maybe for to long - Can't even recall why I was shown this way, but for 30/40 years have just done it this way - Yet I have never tried both options side by side to see if there is any difference - So just a habit I have developed - If both options work, then fine

Henrytwang · August 2019

ICBM said:

guitars4you said:

3 springs and yes one in the centre and 2 on the wings for more of a symmetrical 'pattern' - Yet generally the 'claw' will have a slight angle to it, with 'more screwed in' on the bass string side

It is generally, but it shouldn't be .

It's a complete myth that there is, or should be, more tension on the bass side. As with the position of the springs, it makes no practical difference because the force of the springs is simply summed - there is no point in having one tighter than another.

I agree, I don’t know where the the slanted claw idea came from.

John_A · August 2019

Also make sure you don’t have the baseplate screws tightened hard down, the should be loose enough for it to pivot

ICBM · August 2019

Henrytwang said:

I agree, I don’t know where the the slanted claw idea came from.

There's a fairly well-known player who posted a video showing "how to set up your Strat tremolo" who does it like this, with the (wrong) string tension justification.

It's very easy to disprove - set the guitar up like that, then slacken the screw that's tighter and tighten the one that's looser so the angle of the claw is reversed (if you don't adjust the tuning, you'll know when it's exactly the same because the guitar will be back in tune) and you will find that the movement and stability is identical.

Both the claw and the block are rigid pieces of metal, so the two sides cannot move independently of each other and so it makes no difference which springs are tighter, looser or if they're all the same - only the total tension matters.

Funkfingers · August 2019

Slanted claw implies mismatched spring strengths.

OilCityPickups · August 2019

Funkfingers said:

Slanted claw implies mismatched spring strengths.

Slanted claw implies cat missing a leg :-)

Sassafras · August 2019

Slanted Claw sounds like a Ninja warrior.

guitars4you · August 2019

Sassafras said:

Slanted Claw sounds like a Ninja warrior.

your thinking of Santa Claw

LastMantra · August 2019

I'd try just loosening the tension screws before removing a spring. I have my trem right back on the body with four springs and it works ok. That's with 11s.

mbe · August 2019

guitars4you said:

Sassafras said:

Slanted Claw sounds like a Ninja warrior.

your thinking of Santa Claw

No, Slanted Claw is son of Big Chief Floating Whammy

lincolnblue · September 2019

I've not made any changes yet but had the guitar out yesterday and there's actually only 3 springs anyway. Would taking one out be ok?

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Strat tremolo arm too stiff

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