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A potential budget alternative - Hagstrom Alvar. It's basically a shrunk down version of the Viking (their 335 knock-off).
https://www.hagstromguitars.com/electric-guitars/alvar.html
The orthodox view is that the 339 is airier and closer to the 335, while the 336 is closer to a solid body. IMO once you dial in your sound through your amp, pedals, etc the tonal differences are too subtle to matter. Others will disagree.
My 339 came with tall narrow frets and my 336 with more standard medium jumbos. I don’t know if that’s a consistent difference between the models but I preferred the frets on the 339. I’ve since refretted the 336 with 6100s.
For me it’s the format that’s the winner with these. Both weigh just a smidgeon over 7lbs and they’ll do pretty much what a LP or 335 will do without the weight of the LP or the bulk of the 335. And people keep telling me how much they like the look of them.
I still have a Harley Benton 335 copy that was professionally set up and plays great. It is light and about 1” smaller than a 335 across the lower bout. Pity about the name on the headstock and the cheapo Chinese fittings, but it plays just fine. Depends on your budget.
As always, get in the store and try some. There’s no substitute for noodling!
https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Coupe
It makes a big difference to me. I currently have six guitars and I have refretted all three that originally came with medium jumbo or heavy wire. I put 6100 on two of them and 6000 on one. Two came with 6105 and one with 6100 and I’ve left them as is.
The short answer is that I prefer 6100 to 6105, but so far I haven’t felt the need to refret my 6105 guitars because the difference is pretty subtle.
What they said.
The air capacity inside the body seems to be part of the equation. I sometimes wonder what would happen if Gibson took the -336/339 outline and made it four inches deep to reinstate the cavity volume of a -335/345/355.
AM series?