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But the side profile of the neck blank is cut:
And, heck, let's have the first mock-up
Like all of these kinds of builds, I've been in close contact with Matt (in fact, he may well be following this thread) with the inevitable questions of does he want this or that of the various options you have with a custom job.
Now and again, I also make suggestions based on trying to get the best playing guitar I can. And with the SG, there are - as we all know - certain things that could be improved upon. One of those, in my view, is the tendency for neck dive. And that is impacted on by where the neck meets the body (generally 22nd fret!), the short horns and where the strap button basically has to be (which is too far back).
So, with Matt's OK, I've brought the whole neck (and therefore bridge) back a couple of frets-worth - about 20mm. It's not a lot - not enough to make a tangible difference to the look - but enough to help, with lightweight tuners, etc, - tame that particular issue.
The other thing I will be doing is slotting the fretboard for 24-frets. If it doesn't look right (sometimes you have to see it before you can judge), nothing lost - in that event, before I glue it on, I would just cut it off after the 22nd.
So far so good - but still plenty of time to muck it up
I can see a bearded deity on the left looking up, with a black hole behind.
This lockdown lark is messing with my head, man.
Beautiful wood & work @Andyjr1515
I mean, it's plain to anyone that it's a nicely coiffured wild boar just about to explore a giant wormhole....
A Gibson 24fret SG
https://i.imgur.com/xxYxKdV.jpg
And one I made
Instagram
The bit that I'm less sure about is whether me having moved the fretboard an inch further towards the tailstock then starts making it look a little busy. But as I say, I generally fit the fretboard after the neck, back and top are assembled so I can see what it looks like and, if it still looks good, stick with it
Instagram
Again, I find a hand plane as good as anything to take teeny amounts off the main faces to ensure they are completely square to each other:
Once that was done, I needed to pop a 0.5mm extra depth in the trussrod slot.
Then I was able to cut my notch in the neck blank for the top to slot into:
So basically, the top of the notched face (incorporating the neck angle) will sit flush with the two rear wings:
And then the joined yew top will lie on top of that, leaving the top face flush with the top of the neck.
And, talking of the yew top, I also squared up the gluing joints of that - and it's glued and clamped as I type
And that means that the main components are getting close to assembly