Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions!

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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    To drill the truss rod access - I am worried about catching the headstock. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    A la this video https://youtu.be/LzWREJGtUR4
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    I decided to mask up the face of the headstock with a load of layers of tape and be really careful.  Seemed to just about go ok.  Ever so slightly off the centre of the adjuster but I can get the Allen key on there so that’s the main thing. 



    Today’s lesson learned came in the form of dots.  Really small dots. 

    If you need 10 side dots, for goodness sake order more than 10!  They are fiddly little buggers and you will drop some and you will not find them. :lol: 


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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16857
    Top tip.... watch where small parts fall, don't try and catch them.
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8816
    … and listen too.
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1363
    Neatly done with the truss rod. I have been using a bullnose router cutter to do the face of the hole then drilling though, as I find it makes centering the drill much easier. Although I've been building angled headstocks rather than Fender style, I imagine that would work here too.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    I did a brad point at 45 degrees initially and then shallowed the angle before moving to the long drill bit.  Part of the inaccuracy was due to me forgetting which way up the truss rod was installed and thinking the adjuster was at the bottom rather than the top.  Either way, it works. 

    WezV said:
    Top tip.... watch where small parts fall, don't try and catch them.
    Roland said:
    … and listen too.
    I’m normally pretty good at that, but they kind of pinged and bounced off a tarp that’s over my bikes. 2mm abalone dots on a dusty garage floor not mixing well! :lol: 
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  • elstoofelstoof Frets: 2555
    Aircraft extension bits?
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1363
    elstoof said:
    Aircraft extension bits?
    ooh, i think you've got it! That's what stewmac are calling them. I've always wondered that!
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16857
    edited August 2023
    I wouldn't worry about finding 2mm abalone dots on the floor.... you won't  see them in the side of a guitar neck either.


    They are marginally more visible than black pearl, which can totally dissappear
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    davros said:
    elstoof said:
    Aircraft extension bits?
    ooh, i think you've got it! That's what stewmac are calling them. I've always wondered that!
    Huzzah! That’s the badger!  Done for this time on this build but at least I know for next time! :) 
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  • elstoofelstoof Frets: 2555
    Handy for strat trem claws too
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  • BillDLBillDL Frets: 7561
    Have you been tranquilising horses, or is that a solder sucker?


    Syringe.jpg 39.1K
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    BillDL said:
    Have you been tranquilising horses, or is that a solder sucker?


    Haha, yes, it's a solder sucker.  I was using my tweezers from my soldering gear to put the side dots in :lol: 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    Scary bit today.  Wanted to get onto the neck carve.  

    First I built a neck carving support out of a bit of leftover timber from my bench build.  I wrapped a PVC pipe in sandpaper and used that to sand a concave radius into the top to support the fretboard, then covered it in cork. The cutouts are to enable me to get calibers in at the 1st, 6th and 12th frets to check the depth. I drilled a couple of holes at each end to enable clamping and used another offset with a dowel in to create a riser for the headstock support which can be moved to either end in case I want to rotate the neck. (easier then moving the whole jig around). 



    Then I made a couple of templates.  I printed them off the internet, cut them out and drew round them onto MDF before cutting them out on the bandsaw and then using the spindle sander to finish them off.  I then put some water thin CA glue to harden the edges and prevent fraying. 




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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    Next up the carve.  In the end it went ok I think.  The neck ended up a touch thinner than the templates.  I think I went all the way down to finish dimensions with the rasps and by the time I had smoothed it it ended up a bit thinner.  Still feels ok.  How much leeway do people give themselves when trying to size things to a particular dimension? Should I be leaving a mm or half a mm for sanding etc? 

    You may also notice todays lesson in picture 3... Apparently I drilled my fretboard locating hole too deep :lol:  Luckily I used a wooden stick to locate it, so now it just looks like a knot or a birthmark! :D  It shall serve as a reminder. 


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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    Not sure why those pics came up in that order, but you get the idea. 

    Actually starting to think I might pull this off.  Lots still to do and plenty to go wrong, but this almost looks like a thing: 


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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16857
    edited August 2023
    Try and make that flat triangle on the heel as short as possible, I do it with half round rasp, file and finish with scrapers to almost hollow it out.  Might be worth drawing some circles/curves on as a carving guide.

    The nut end looks like it's got a similar flat spot that could do with rounding out.

    The transitions are always the hardest to perfect and get flowing right.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    Thanks Wez, appreciate your guidance.  I will revisit and finesse a bit. 

    I wasn't sure how far to push it. The template had some lines roughly following that triangle that I assumed was supposed to be flat. Going to have a look at a couple of my guitars too to try and see how their transitions are. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 539
    Did a bit of reworking today, but forgot to photograph it when finished but hopefully get the idea - it's a lot smother than that now.  Managed to get the triangle down to about half the size.  Also sorted the headstock transition.  I did a bit of work around the heel of the neck pocket too.  Nothing major, just a slight angled chamfer, but it makes a big difference to the comfort.

     


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