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I want to replace the pickups in my Mira but there is a ridiculous amount of solder holding the original braided pickup wire to the volume pot. My 40W soldering iron doesn't even make a dent and I'm worried about damaging the pot.
Any thoughts on how to unattach it? I would rather keep the pickup wire intact if possible although have already been very tempted to just cut straight through it!!
Thanks
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Thanks, didn't think about trying some new solder on top. Will give that a go.
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Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
That's what happens if you mix lead free and leaded.
Oh wait, no ... that's crossing the streams in Ghostbusters ...
For the record, RoHS solder is fucking awful. Due to the higher melting point, the flux boils causing bubbles in the solder and that leads to intermittency. My old company (or rather their contract manufacturers) had SO many problems post switch over due to bad flow... I'm not convinced by its longevity in high movement environments either (such as portable electronics).
But hey we're stuck with it. And all the fluffy bunnies can all hop happily in the fields. Until the Mixi gets 'em...
That's just for the dentists guitar you understand, a 60w iron will solve your solder problem
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
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AFAIK the only possible problem from mixing lead 60/40 and Pbfree is the fact that if you melt any two metals together the resultant melting point is always lower than that of either metal alone so in some, rare circumstance you could end up with a very easily melted joint. NOT likely to bother you in a geetar!
Yes, the first samples of Pbfree solder I got my hands on were truly horrible but the good stuff is ok IF you have a hot enough iron. And yes, "flood" the job with solder and use a good flux.
Dave.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
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