The world of Wez :)

WezV

developing quite nicely

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps42bef5e4.jpg

as is the bronze on the scratchplate

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpsc87e9b73.jpg

WezV

24 hours makes a big difference

this has gone a bit too far for me

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpsd3ebea01.jpg

but this is bloody perfect

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps641b96c3.jpg

gonna try a few tests on the copper under the scatchplate area to see what it will come out at.   gonna hope the bronze doesn't change to much when sealed

WezV

@jookychap  - whats your thoughts regarding the next steps.   have you used the sealer they sell for this stuff and, if so,  how does it change the colour?

I am quite happy with the paint so far and reckon I can do a fancier version  of the above on the thinline.   I also have a dano that may be getting the copper treatment

JookyChap

The sealer is awful - you lose most of the colour and then it doesn't work too well either. Avoid it like the plague.

Other than that, it's a real compromise - the best way I've found to keep the colour is to use a simple beeswax finish, as it will continue corroding for a while and almost refreshes itself under the wax - but won't rub off on your clothes etc. (iirc it is what Trussart do on some of theirs). Roseal do a brushing wax which works well when you mix in some beeswax (50:50)

Obviously it doesn't give much protection though and it ends up satin/matte.

The next level is Hard Wax Oil - you lose a bit more colour than beeswax, but can get a solid finish that is glossy. Tru-oil works too, but you need to keep the first coat really thin compared to the hard wax oil.

Finally lacquer - If you keep the very first coat microns thick you won't lose too much colour, and can build up/sand as normal after that. I've used (canned) nitro and acrylic/polywhatever, and all work much the same, just as long as that first coat is thin.

Of the three they sell, the bronze is the one that works best with lacquer, then the copper - the rust is really tricky to get right. I think it is because the copper/bronze corrode dried paint whereas when you do the rusty iron thing the paint has to be wet (unless it is the other way around, can't remember off the top of my head

This is Beeswax:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BdWqaw9tJAs/UvDl2sZyMFI/AAAAAAAAG3s/IWdjfvynrck/s1600/IMG_5278.JPG

This is Tru-Oil:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RJuwo4mZeds/Us8I9WxwxgI/AAAAAAAAGwA/sAnLiXEVtfY/s1600/IMG_5140.JPG

This was Nitro-in-a-can:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9QEm1KiPPxQ/ThA-sXZRpXI/AAAAAAAAA6c/ikbT08N0AP8/s400/002.JPG

WezV

On that basis I think I will try some acrylic lacquer on the body tonight.   start with a light coat and maybe  go a bit heavier to purposely lose some of the colour on the body, but keep it really light to try and keep the colour on the plate

when I originally metal leafed this guitar I used stain  rubbed on and off between coats of lacquer to tone it all down, might try something similar on this if it stays bright 

this copper and bronze said to work wet, which is going to make it trickier to do in the really controlled way I want for the thinline, but practice makes perfect.   I am also going to play with sponges to try and get different patterns and textures

JookyChap

Sounds like a plan, and sponges work really well. Another one I found is the temperature, no surprise really, but the warmer the room the quicker it all happens, so if you are bored, whip out the hairdryer

WezV

lacquer worked great on this - toned it back down to a nice level.   its also sunk into the grain a lot which I quite like

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps3ac03133.jpg

but yeah, the brass has lost its lovely blue completely with the lightest possible coat.  still looks good, but nowhere near as vivid

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps25019f17.jpg

That's my first test done, I will get it assembled as a guitar again soon.  next test will be to try and get a more realistic aged copper dano look

WezV

chucked a coat of wax on and put it together

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps3756f20a.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpsebf846f5.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps4f03b00f.jpg

quite happy with this for a quick easy finish.

1x coat of copper  brushed on and left to dry

1x coat of copper brushed on .....

1x airbrush coat of oxidising solution whilst still wet

1x coat of rattle can acrylic lacquer

1x rub down with bri-wax

 1/2 and hours work on tuesday, wednesday and thursday

now its time to try something a little different.  this time i want to build up a smoother copper finish before I age anything - first coat has been brushed on.  

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpsdc9377de.jpg

the plan is a few more coats, level it off and lacquer - then relic slightly and aim for something a bit like this... maybe

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0332/7621/products/2_720970f8-cd29-486f-9270-d52bd29616b2.jpg

WezV

3 coats of copper paint brushed on the dano so far

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps90bf3f1d.jpg

mudslide73

Having seen the Strat/Tele in person the other night (and the Moderne!) I can safely say that the photos don't do them justice. Top stuff again Wez.

WezV

has a slight issue with the ageing solution running very easily - probably should have laid the guitar flat to try this - but nearly what I was aiming for

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps7d511703.jpg

Andyjr1515

These are fascinating trials, @WezV. Thanks for sharing...it's much appreciated. Andy

Shark_Eyes

I'm enjoying the Dano the most, the copper with touches of wear is really nice.

The pickguard was beautiful too before it lost some of the blue, but probably suits the guitar better now.

WezV

so fake wear on the dano didn't work as well as I hoped.   the copper paint seems to peel off rather than thin out so its sharp lines rather than a nice worn fade - i will try a few things on this to see if I can get a better wear effect.. although its likely i didn't key the surface well enough to get good adhesion, or these paints just won't stick well to each other

but the success is a slight green hue I have achieved around the pickups and armwear - which you may or may not see in this pic

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps3bf961c5.jpg

if I could get that more controlled I would be very happy, but as it is I will probably try a few more things out before stripping this guitar back and trying something else.   I guess the ageing solutions may have potential for goldtop ageing

WezV

just doing some full size sketches in photoshop. rough at the moment, but they will print at the correct scale which allows me to stick them on template material and make something a bit smoother

this will be a slow burner - but its something I have always aspired to

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/outline1_zpskibycntf.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/plate1_zpsw0kyqfsw.jpg

Roland

What's the spare round hole for?

WezV

The option of a master volume. like it on my john birch and some Z's have them.

WezV

so here is the dano put back together.   still need to age the guard and body tape a bit, and whilst the black showing through is a bit hokey I think the overall look is pretty good

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps616c8600.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpsafc382f3.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zps22a6445e.jpg

Niallmo

Great work. Love that.

WezV

just doing a bit of inlay

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpstp2j75up.jpg

I didn't cut the pearl for this, I am far too clumsy for that.  the guy I am building the guitar for brought the set - can't wait to sand back the bigger ones at the lower frets