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Comments
Pretty much all of my guitars have one.
Of the PRS, it looks right. On a Yamaha, a Les Trem looks right. On a Gibson, only a Bigsby looks right...
(In fact, a Bigsby *doesn't* look right on a Yamaha, so it goes both ways.)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
This is a discussion of how to get a Maestro working properly on an SG, but the same principle applies to a Bigsby, particularly the bit about the domed thumb wheels.
I also saw a discussion of Neil Young’s Old Black and his tech Larry Cragg is also of the opinion that domed thumb wheels are a must.
I had tried everything on my LP with Bigsby: first I tried a roller bridge, didn’t like the sound, then I got locking tuners, which didn’t really help at all, then a new Tusq XL nut installed, which helped a bit, then Graphtech String Saver saddles, which also helped a bit but not enough to make the Bigsby usable, then I raised the Bigsby off the guitar similar to the principle behind BriggsBiggsFix and that helped a fair amount but still no dice. The problem was that the guitar wouldn’t stay in tune with itself. Using the Bigsby, some strings would go sharp, some flat, so after playing a solo with the Bigsby moving back to chord stuff was nearly impossible, as it would just be wildly out of tune. I lost the Graphtech saddles when I got the domed thumbwheels, so now when I have a Bigsby wig out the guitar might be slightly sharp or flat after but in tune with itself more or less.
Also for Gibson guitars maybe check out the String Butler. I’ve never used one myself but I’ve heard it can help to sort out issues with tuning stemming from the break angle at the headstock.