Polarizing filters?

robgilmo

I have briefly been reading up on these, does anyone use them? Looking at the Gobe filters. I am thinking of getting one for my Canon 50mm 1.8 prime lens.
https://mygobe.com/uk/

Winny_Pooh

For most types of landscape photography its a must. Bear in mind that you loose around 1 stop of light (for viewing and exposure times) so its not suited for lower light handheld shots. 

rocktron

I use a Hoya Pro1 Digital UV Filter which is fitted permanently on a Nikkor 18-140mm lens attached to a Nikon D5300 camera. The filter is on the lens mainly as a lens front element protector, and I forget about it. You can't do that with a circular polariser - you need to rotate the filter for the effect you want.  

I have a Hoya Pro1 CPL in my camera bag, but I rarely use it. 

Do bear in mind that you would need to compensate about 1.5 stops when using a Circular Polariser in low light in manual mode. The camera should do this automatically in AF mode.

The technical experts here would give you helpful advice on how to use a circular polariser, and when and when not to use one.

boogieman

I use a CPL occasionally, it’s useful for taking reflections off water or glass. I wouldn’t consider it a vital purchase though, I use a UV filter far more often to reduce haze in the sky. 

Must admit I haven’t heard of the brand in the link. 

Grumpyrocker

I've a few Gobe filters. I've had no trouble with them at all, they do the job.

robgilmo

I never knew UV filters reduced haze, how effective are they?

Grumpyrocker

robgilmo said:

I never knew UV filters reduced haze, how effective are they?

Pointless on digital cameras. Just use a lens hood if you want to protect your front element.

rocktron

The Physics of Polarisers

Light travels in waves. To demonstrate this, go to your local sunglasses emporium and pick out two polarising sunglasses..

Hold one lens in front of the other and gradually rotate one. You will get to a point where the light through the lenses is blacked out completely. This is at 90 degrees to where the axes of the two polarisers cross - the maximum cut off point.

NOTE: A knockoff pair of sunglasses marketed as polarisers won't do this. When buying a polarising pair of sunglasses use a known genuine polarising one to test if the other one is genuine or fake. 

A polariser lets light vibrating in one direction plane through. A second polariser with its axis held at 90 degrees placed in front blocks all the light coming through. If you rotate the second polariser, you gradually increase or decrease the amount of light getting through.

Essentially, a polarising filter will cut out 50% of light, so you would need to compensate for this exposure loss when using one.

Funkfingers

robgilmo said:

I am thinking of getting one for my Canon 50mm 1.8 prime lens.

What diameter is your 50mm lens? 

I have a 55mm Hoya Japan UV(O) screw-in filter and a polarising filter (probably also Hoya) languishing in a camera bag. I doubt that I will ever need them again.

Budgie

I use one for landscapes. Definitely a must to filter at the time an image is taken, as you cannot replicate the filter in post production.

dazzajl

A polarising filer (always with an S please ) is about the only thing you can’t replicate after the shot in some form. An essential little addition to any kit bag and will turn the right shot from ‘meh’ to total winner. 

There are probably more occasions though where all it will do is cost you light, so I’ve never been one for keeping it on a lens full time. 

If you have reflections you want to kill, if you are shooting 90 degrees to the sun or if you have some general atmospheric haze, it’ll have an impact of some degree to your shot. I personally can’t stand the faff of screw on filters so I just keep a big filter and hold it in front of the lens. Or  even use my sunglasses if it’s a small enough lens to be covered. 

ThePrettyDamned

Gobe filters are good. I use their two peaks range, which is hoya multicoated glass.

Polarisers can be useful. I used them for street photography and portraits, which is seen as unusual but often led to amazing colour saturation and a lack of blown highlights from reflections. However if you dial to max it can make people look dead as they lose the catch light in their eyes. (not an exaggeration, it looks truly weird). 

For a landscape, again, can be good, can be bad and the ability to dial it in is essential. 

I like round screw in filters more than square because they're quicker and easier for me to use. YMMV

robgilmo

Funkfingers said:

robgilmo said:

I am thinking of getting one for my Canon 50mm 1.8 prime lens.

What diameter is your 50mm lens? 

I have a 55mm Hoya Japan UV(O) screw-in filter and a polarising filter (probably also Hoya) languishing in a camera bag. I doubt that I will ever need them again.

49mm from memory. I've been noticing things like reflections in water ang glass more and more these days, also clouds don't seem to have the detail they should, skies seem washed out, so I'm thinking a filter will help.

Lodious

Be careful when using them with wide angle lenses, they can give weird changes in brightness accross the frame if the focal length is short. 

Budgie

If you have more than one lens that you're likely to want to use a polariser (or any other filter) with, get one that fits the largest thread size of all of your lenses and use step down rings on the others... it'll save you a fortune.

robgilmo

Good call , my other lens is a EF-S 18-55 mm f/4-5.6 IS STM with a 58mm filter diameter.

Jez6345789

Yeah the Gobe filter did me through the US national parks holiday fine and a polarizer is always handy

Toms_Dad

All the above advice is really good. Use a polarising filter if you want deep blue sky and fluffy white clouds in your picture. The only other way I know that you could do this is with some clever HDR (high dynamic range) technique. They are also really useful for increasing the colour saturation as they reduce reflections.  Obviously you can do the latter in image editing software, but I find it always pays to get the image as close as possible in camera first.  It’s good technique practice and gives you more lee way in editing later.

strtdv

dazzajl said:

A polarising filer (always with an S please ) 

I prefer my filter with a "t", thank you very much.


I don't get much opportunity to do photography these days but if you shoot a lot of landscapes you'll definitely appreciate one as it cuts through haze. You lose a bit of light but not usually an issue for landscapes.

Jimbro66

Budgie said:

If you have more than one lens that you're likely to want to use a polariser (or any other filter) with, get one that fits the largest thread size of all of your lenses and use step down rings on the others... it'll save you a fortune.

Good advice but bear in mind that it will probably prevent the bayonet lens hood of your 49mm from fitting. The answer then is to buy an aftermarket lens hood with a 58mm screw thread. Alternatively use one of the Lee-type filter holders which will suit most lens sizes.

ToneControl

Toms_Dad said:

All the above advice is really good. Use a polarising filter if you want deep blue sky and fluffy white clouds in your picture. The only other way I know that you could do this is with some clever HDR (high dynamic range) technique. They are also really useful for increasing the colour saturation as they reduce reflections.  Obviously you can do the latter in image editing software, but I find it always pays to get the image as close as possible in camera first.  It’s good technique practice and gives you more lee way in editing later.

I've used cokin graduated grey or blue filters since the 80s, works very well (Especially in addition to a CPL)