Polarizing filters?

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  • ToneControlToneControl Frets: 11896
    Gobe filters are good. I use their two peaks range, which is hoya multicoated glass.

    Polarisers can be useful. I used them for street photography and portraits, which is seen as unusual but often led to amazing colour saturation and a lack of blown highlights from reflections. However if you dial to max it can make people look dead as they lose the catch light in their eyes. (not an exaggeration, it looks truly weird). 

    For a landscape, again, can be good, can be bad and the ability to dial it in is essential. 

    I like round screw in filters more than square because they're quicker and easier for me to use. YMMV
    what is this "peaks" business?
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    Gobe filters are good. I use their two peaks range, which is hoya multicoated glass.

    Polarisers can be useful. I used them for street photography and portraits, which is seen as unusual but often led to amazing colour saturation and a lack of blown highlights from reflections. However if you dial to max it can make people look dead as they lose the catch light in their eyes. (not an exaggeration, it looks truly weird). 

    For a landscape, again, can be good, can be bad and the ability to dial it in is essential. 

    I like round screw in filters more than square because they're quicker and easier for me to use. YMMV
    what is this "peaks" business?


    Levels of quality, glass quality I think.

    Speaking of quality, are Hoya any good? would a cheap filter give bad results?
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • rocktronrocktron Frets: 806
    edited November 2019
    robgilmo said: 

    Speaking of quality, are Hoya any good? would a cheap filter give bad results?
    Hoya Pro1 Digital filters are among the very best, if not the best.

    I am aware of people using cheaper UV filters as lens front element protectors with good results, but any serious photographer will always invest in the best glass available which they can afford, whether this be lens or filters..  


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  • BudgieBudgie Frets: 2100
    robgilmo said:
    Gobe filters are good. I use their two peaks range, which is hoya multicoated glass.

    Polarisers can be useful. I used them for street photography and portraits, which is seen as unusual but often led to amazing colour saturation and a lack of blown highlights from reflections. However if you dial to max it can make people look dead as they lose the catch light in their eyes. (not an exaggeration, it looks truly weird). 

    For a landscape, again, can be good, can be bad and the ability to dial it in is essential. 

    I like round screw in filters more than square because they're quicker and easier for me to use. YMMV
    what is this "peaks" business?


    Levels of quality, glass quality I think.

    Speaking of quality, are Hoya any good? would a cheap filter give bad results?
    I use a 100mm square filter set with CPL by Nisi which was quite expensive, I also bought a cheaper CPL for a different lens to avoid having to change the whole filter holder setup over... I have to say that the cheaper Gobe filter works really well and I’d have no hesitation recommending one.
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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    rocktron said:
    robgilmo said: 

    Speaking of quality, are Hoya any good? would a cheap filter give bad results?
    Hoya Pro1 Digital filters are among the very best, if not the best.

    I am aware of people using cheaper UV filters as lens front element protectors with good results, but any serious photographer will always invest in the best glass available which they can afford, whether this be lens or filters..  


    For years I’ve used the Hoya Pro 1 Digital filters and German made B&W filters. Both excellent quality with the B&W filters being less prone to smears* IME.

    *For the OP, if your circular polariser is used in conjunction with a lens hood that has a small removable square section at the bottom it is easy to turn it through that window but some lens hoods do not have that facility so rotating the filter is a little more tricky when the hood is fitted and needs care to avoid touching and smearing the glass. NB I’m talking about bayonet lens hoods, not the screw-in type.
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  • dazzajldazzajl Frets: 5754
    rocktron said:

    ...........but any serious photographer will always invest in the best glass available which they can afford, whether this be lens or filters..  


    Of all the ways I can think that my photography might be described, I think ‘serious’ is probably the most dreary and uninspiring I can imagine. I do get how it’s become common parlance for passion and dedication but I still don’t like it. 

    I’m not sure art should ever be too serious?

    That said, I do indeed like good lenses. I really love the quirky characterful ones more though. 
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    Guys, does anyone know of a good retailer that sells the HD Pro Hoya filters? Prices seem to vary considerably and eBay seems to be hit and miss with fakes.
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    edited November 2019
    Wex has a black Friday deal on them at present with 20% off what is already a competitive price. I just got a 43mm polariser for my little Fuji 23mm and 35mm lenses for £42.40 after discount. A larger diameter filter will be a little more.

    I should clarify that it was an Ultra Pro filter I bought which is Hoya's best.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • sev112sev112 Frets: 2764
    I find them a bit marmite to be honest 

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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    edited November 2019
    robgilmo said:
    If you get an Ultra Pro and keep it scrupulously clean it should have no adverse effect at all on your lens's IQ. Just bear in mind that it will by its nature reduce the amount of light passing through the lens. That is the trade off so remove the filter when it's not required.

    Edit: I assume you mean a step up ring, rather than step down, so you can use a 58mm dia filter on the lesser diameter prime lens.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    Jimbro66 said:
    robgilmo said:
    If you get an Ultra Pro and keep it scrupulously clean it should have no adverse effect at all on your lens's IQ. Just bear in mind that it will by its nature reduce the amount of light passing through the lens. That is the trade off so remove the filter when it's not required.

    Edit: I assume you mean a step up ring, rather than step down, so you can use a 58mm dia filter on the lesser diameter prime lens.
    Yes, 49 - 58mm, is there any reason why a cheap eBay ring would be a bad idea?
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    robgilmo said:
    Jimbro66 said:
    robgilmo said:
    If you get an Ultra Pro and keep it scrupulously clean it should have no adverse effect at all on your lens's IQ. Just bear in mind that it will by its nature reduce the amount of light passing through the lens. That is the trade off so remove the filter when it's not required.

    Edit: I assume you mean a step up ring, rather than step down, so you can use a 58mm dia filter on the lesser diameter prime lens.
    Yes, 49 - 58mm, is there any reason why a cheap eBay ring would be a bad idea?
    To be honest I’ve not tried them. At that price it’s worth a punt but be careful it doesn’t damage your lens and filter threads and maybe don’t leave it attached to either for very long in case it corrodes. I prefer to spend a bit more on the Kood step-up rings but the Chinese ones might be OK.
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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    BTW I noticed that your zoom lens is not supplied with a lens hood @robgilmo. Have you since bought a EW-63C hood for it or do you use an aftermarket hood?
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  • NomadNomad Frets: 549
    Jimbro66 said:
    robgilmo said:
    Yes, 49 - 58mm, is there any reason why a cheap eBay ring would be a bad idea?
    To be honest I’ve not tried them. At that price it’s worth a punt but be careful it doesn’t damage your lens and filter threads and maybe don’t leave it attached to either for very long in case it corrodes. I prefer to spend a bit more on the Kood step-up rings but the Chinese ones might be OK.
    I've used Kood and cheapies for a few years with no issues. That's both step-up rings and one-piece metal hoods.

    If a ring/hood screws in normally, it shouldn't damage the threads (in general, threaded parts either fit or they don't, and it's pretty obvious when they don't). Corrosion has never even occurred to me, and I've never seen any evidence of it. The parts are black anodised aluminium alloy and should be very resistant to corrosion. 

    With all of these things (adapter rings, filters, hoods), only a gentle to moderate turning force is needed to fit and remove - never force anything thinking it will sort out a fit or removal issue. They can sometimes feel that they don't want to come off. When that happens, avoid pressing harder at each side to get a better grip - there's a chance of compressing the metal part inwards where you grip, causing the parts you aren't pressing on to bow outwards, creating more friction in the threads. Better to try and get a hold of it around as much of the diameter as you can (space the finger tips evenly around the diameter), apply less pressure, and then unscrew.

    The trick is to not tighten too much to begin with - after threading it on, just nip it up enough to stop it working loose. If you're not sure, err on the side of caution and check regularly to see if the part has become loose. It's unlikely to fall off if you check frequently because there is plenty of thread engagement (several turns). Should soon get an idea of how much is needed to keep it in place while still being easy to remove later.

    Beware of temperature changes and disparate materials - aluminium might expand more than a plastic or steel female thread on the lens, meaning it can tighten up after fitting in cooler conditions than when you try to remove it.


    Nomad
    Nobody loves me but my mother... and she could be jivin' too...

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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    @robgilmo I have just realised that I have polarising and UV filters in 58mm dia thread. Both are Hoya Fusion Antistatic and are in as-new condition. They were bought for my DSLR kit but were little used before I sold it all in a move to Fujifilm cameras. 58mm does not fit any Fujinon lenses. I’d sell them both for half their new cost. If you think that might be of interest drop me a pm.

    https://hoyafilter.com/product/fusion_cir_pl/
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    Jimbro66 said:
    @robgilmo I have just realised that I have polarising and UV filters in 58mm dia thread. Both are Hoya Fusion Antistatic and are in as-new condition. They were bought for my DSLR kit but were little used before I sold it all in a move to Fujifilm cameras. 58mm does not fit any Fujinon lenses. I’d sell them both for half their new cost. If you think that might be of interest drop me a pm.

    https://hoyafilter.com/product/fusion_cir_pl/
    Yes, I would be interested, depending on how much they cost new? Are they boxed?

    The hood on my 18-55 is an aftermarket one if I remember correctly.


    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    That looks like the genuine Canon hood to me -  or a very faithful copy.

    The Hoya Fusion Antistatic filters are in their original foam-lined plastic cases as shown here:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hoya-FUSION-Antistatic-CIR-PL-Filter/dp/B00W4EVTWS

    The polariser is around £45 new and the UV filter around £30 new, i.e. £75-ish the pair. I’d be asking £40 for the pair including insured postage in mainland UK.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    It could well be a genuine hood, I seem to remember trying to track a genuine hood down on eBay as new they are silly expensive for what they are.
    PM'd RE the filters.
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3453
    So, a quick recap, I bought Jims filter , thank you Jim, and had a play. It was just a brief play at taking some cloud and land scape photos, the filter makes a huge yet subtle difference if that makes sense? I did notice that making the sky pop puts the foreground under exposed, although my camera was on auto no flash mode for convenience as I didn't have a lot of time. Lens was my 50mm prime.

    This is without the filter,


    This is with the filter,




    And this is after some quick adjustments to try and expose the trees a little more.





    My editing skills arnt great, probably made it a little too saturated, but all in all a very positive experience that will send me on a new learning curve, its certainly boosted my interest in photography a lot more than before, I guess the more you learn and see results the more you want to progress.


    Thanks for all the help guys, its greatly appreciated.

    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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