Thoughts on a new build

TTony

It's been a while since I've done a complete build, and with long hot summer months ahead, I thought I'd plan one.

Rather than doing another same-again build, I'm thinking of doing something different.  But, before I start it and then realise why it'd never work, I thought I'd ask for comments/observations here first!

Idea;

• Semi-hollow body with laminated sides and flat back and a carved solid top.
  (Smaller body than 335 because I find those cumbersome.)
  
  
• Neck would extend through to the bridge as a one-piece, so it'd be a 3/4 thru-neck.    Separate tail block.
  (Saves worrying about a neck join, and fixing a separate block in the body to accept the neck, plus strength/sustain?)
  
  
• Underside of the top would be flat rather than  hollowed out
  (to make sticking it to the 3/4 neck a bit easier)
  
  
• Laminated sides and back would be 5-layer wood veneers, kerfing top & bottom edges to allow joining to body top  back.
  (each layer alternates grain direction for strength and bend-ability).
  
  
• Possibly bound front and back
  (back is probably more necessary than the front, to allow a neat join between the laminated sides & laminated back).
  
  
• Some sort of f-holes on the front (that don't look like f-holes) and a rear cavity/cover
  (Don't like the f-hole design, and the  rear cavity cover because I don't fancy doing all the wiring through the p'up cavities!)
  
  
• Pickups - definitely.  Couple of P90s, or HBs, or a mix & match.  Not too fussed at this stage.

Thoughts, oh wise ones???

WezV

Interesting idea.

Are the sides going to be built around the neck block?    It will be easier to keep in line if you go with full neck through, but I like the idea of stopping after the bridge.


If you don't carve inside it will be obvious in the sound holes, but it's still not a bad look to do it that way.


Mostly interested to see how you go about laminating the sides 

TTony

WezV said:

Mostly interested to see how you go about laminating the sides 

I have a cunning plan for that @WezV. ; At least, I think it's cunning.

Rather than shaping the sides to the inside of a mould (ie, per a normal acoustic build), I'm going to shape them to the outside of a mould, using a vacuum press.

Should be less risk of splitting the wood (ok, laminate) and easier than using a bending iron.

WezV

It should work well.... I saw something similar recently, but can't remember where at the moment.   

Although it's well worth having an outside mold too.  You need a way to hold them aligned once bent

Having a full inside and outside mold may actually be quite beneficial.   You could probably bend the veneer just by clamping them together 

Andyjr1515

Count me in on this one @Ttony. ; I will steal all your ideas watch with great interest how you tackle some of the aspects ref my 'slow-burn' build

TTony

Good,to have you along @Andyjr1515 - but please don’t rush me ...

davros

Sounds great, would be very interested to see this one!!

I would hollow out the top on the two sides, but leave the middle (where you plan to glue the neck) flat. I think that would make the f holes look better and give much more of the 335 resonance. If you have a pillar drill with a depth stop, it shouldn't be too tricky.

Roland

TTony said:

• Some sort of f-holes on the front (that don't look like f-holes) and a rear cavity/cover (Don't like the f-hole design, and the  rear cavity cover because I don't fancy doing all the wiring through the p'up cavities!) Thoughts, oh wise ones???

I like the cutouts in @octatonic’s Forshage thread instead of f-holes

Rabs

Wow.. Sounds very interesting and is certainly quite a leap from a solid body..  Will watch with interest.

What woods are you thinking about using?

TTony

Roland said:

I like the cutouts in @octatonic’s Forshage thread instead of f-holes

So do I.

I'm certainly thinking something closer to that design than the traditional f-holes (which never look right on a guitar to my eyes!).

Rabs said:

What woods are you thinking about using?

Not really got that far in my thinking yet - will see what I can find lying about the place @Rabs.

For the top, I know I've got some Walnut, and some Mahogany with a slight flame to it, and some interestingly featured  Utile, and a piece of Birds Eye Maple (though that may wait for version 2.0!) and some London Plane (remember that?).

For the neck, I'll probably make a 5-way out of  some of the lengths of sapele, maple, walnut, and various other bits that I've forgotten I've got.  I've also got a couple of pieces of proper mahogany which will make a few necks if cut correctly.

TTony

davros said:

I would hollow out the top on the two sides, but leave the middle (where you plan to glue the neck) flat. I think that would make the f holes look better and give much more of the 335 resonance. If you have a pillar drill with a depth stop, it shouldn't be too tricky.

I've got the pillar drill @davros.

But I might try to get a bit clever.  I've got a CNC machine incoming next week.  The design/programming aspect will take a bit of practice, but I'm thinking of using that for the top carve and the not-f-holes, the binding channels and all the cavities. 

If that works, then I might be able to invert the top carve to carve the underside.  But - as you say - the centre will remain uncarved so I've got a good solid face to glue to the neck.

davros

Ooh, I'm jealous! Maybe carve the inside first so you have a flat surface to sit it on for the top carve. If you carve the top first, you will need some sort of fixture to carve the inside.

If you're going to the trouble of modelling the carve, you might as well carve the back too 

Rabs

Rabs said:

What woods are you thinking about using?

Not really got that far in my thinking yet - will see what I can find lying about the place @Rabs.

For the top, I know I've got some Walnut, and some Mahogany with a slight flame to it, and some interestingly featured  Utile, and a piece of Birds Eye Maple (though that may wait for version 2.0!) and some London Plane (remember that?).

For the neck, I'll probably make a 5-way out of  some of the lengths of sapele, maple, walnut, and various other bits that I've forgotten I've got.  I've also got a couple of pieces of proper mahogany which will make a few necks if cut correctly.

Nice..  Also if I remember there was a really stunning beech top... 

TTony

There was - and still is - @Rabs.  It’s tucked away safely in my wood store, waiting for a suitable body to get made.

Back then, I knew this really helpful guy, who had access to all sorts of tasty timbers.  Whatever happened to him?

Rabs

TTony said:

There was - and still is - @Rabs.  It’s tucked away safely in my wood store, waiting for a suitable body to get made.

Back then, I knew this really helpful guy, who had access to all sorts of tasty timbers.  Whatever happened to him?

Haha     Well I can still go in any time I want and get some ... I am owed.. And the boss will pretty much let me take what ever I want anyway..

In fact I am awaiting a new stock of Plane.. They are out of the thick stuff at the moment but more is coming. When it does I still intend to do an all Plane build... I have a neck ready and waiting from the last time I popped in a few weeks ago.

https://i.imgur.com/wP8TiFr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jiFFMhK.jpg

ArchtopDave

A couple of thoughts. Have you considered having the Top not attached to the Centre Block? I have come across the occasional guitar made like this. The Bridge and Tailpiece (??Bigsby) can still be fixed through on to the Centre Block. 

I would, in general, disagree with @davros about caving the Top. You need to have the outer surface of the Top looking right, and this would best be done by carving the outer surface first and getting it to a reasonably finished state. Then you work the inner surface in relation to the outer surface ( I'm sure you must have learnt a few things from having a laugh at me spending days in the corner of Mark's workshop with a French Curve Scraper and Sandpaper!!!!). If you were to make an error carving the inner surface first, then this might create problems in the subsequent carving of the outer surface.