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It's my issue, not the technology, but it's an issue all the same. I've been through the "go modeller" route 5 times in the past 10-15 years and know far more about Line 6 , Boss or Headrush than anyone who doesn't own any of it today should know! :-)
My current OE Deluxe61 solution (in effect an analogue solid state amp that doesn't amplify much) has just three controls to dial in. The gain (acting like a volume control on the non-master volume amp that it is) and the tone. Then, when I'm happy with the sound I'm getting and the way it responds to my playing, pickup choice or the input from a boost pedal, just adjust the output control to make it send that out at unity gain or thereabouts and feed the H90. But that pedalboard takes up four times the floor area of a GT1000 (2x the dimensions in each direction) and weighs more than I'd like.
FWIW, I'd like to praise the Laney LFR 112 speaker I use when I'm going direct. Running in FRFR mode, I'm getting a great sound "in the room" from my go direct board. It's not quite as 3D as the valve amps I own, but absolutely fine in the band mix - and 3D amp sounds can get lost in the band mix, too. I wonder how I would have liked it with the GT1000, but I didn't own it then.
I suspect it would make sense to try an FM3 and see how I get on with that.
For me, the way you amplify it is key to getting a tone you are happy with. For some folks, a power amp and regular cab is preferred.
The other way ( which widens the choice massively) is using a cab IR into an FRFR solution. If you like the Laney, the latter option would likely suit you. I've settled on a few York Audio IR's and run it through a Fender FR10 and am really pleased with how it all sounds.
The thing with the FM3 is that it sounds pretty solid straight off the bat - the factory presets are a great starting point. There are two ways you can interact with amp models - the basic level gives access to the controls you would find on the real amp but you can also deep dive if you want to do stuff that would be more difficult on the real thing, such as change bias, valve types etc, etc. I've not needed to go down that rabbit hole but it's nice to have the option.
Yes, there is a learning & discovery curve ( I found the Cooper Carter Masterclass well worth the price), but once you have settled on a couple of amps / cabs you like, it's just as straightforward as a real world amp.
Personally, I find the modelling approach more practical & convenient, especially when dealing with non-master volume amps which can only do certain things at certain volumes.
I haven't bought a single pedal since getting the FM3 and am confident that if I can't get a sound that I want, I'm the limitation, not the equipment.
Laney LFR-112 and Helix for me... its all about the convenience to me ... and to be honest.. the punters have no idea what gear you are using.. only the sound they can hear..
is it crazy how saying sentences backwards creates backwards sentences saying how crazy it is?
http://www.g66.eu/ http://www.zenrigs.com/
I have a Laney LFR-112 here, using with the Axe-FX III, FM9 and FM3 and it is a seriously fun beast of a speaker to play through. Great thump and LOUD! I've tried a lot of FRFR over the years - the Laney is easily up there as one of the best - and such great value too.
http://www.g66.eu/ http://www.zenrigs.com/
In some cases, there may be no advantage. For me, there is. It's £700 for a JC-40 amp before any pedals. I like a lot of shoegazey shit. Once you start fucking about with power supplies, pedalboards, patch cables etc, and add that to the cost of pedals, then a £600 Stomp XL, £20 for a Hotone Ampero Switch, and a £300 PA speaker would make a lot more sense.
The digital solution allowed me to fine tune how the amp model reacted.
It also helped that I always used Rack FX - and my Tc G-Maj had developed a fault - so I was looking for a new rack muti FX unit anyway.
i have however, never REALLY gelled with the FRF full on digital solution with the exception of for recording. It has its place live opto of course, for the FOH sound. HOWEVER, for personal monitoring, noodling, playing for pleasure - I have ALWAYS stuck with a real cab and a power amp.
With lesser modellers (and that includes the first generation Fractal gear) I needed to use a VALVE power amp to truly get things working. In my case a VHT 2:502. As things evolved SS power amps became useable - the Matrix stuff, and lately the Seymore duncan powerstage. I have recently moved back top a valve PA in the Fryette POwer Station - mainly as Im looking at a little valve combo just to have and I would likely need an attenuator for home use - and the PS can do that as well as power my Axe-FX.
Despite my love of the fractal gear, and the benefits digital DOES bring, I havent really liked the Headrush stuff - or the Helix - or even the Kemper (though that is more to do with workflow - going back to my first comment about not finding a real amp that I fuilly liked and theFractal allowing me to fine tune to taste - the Kempres dont do that).
I have also fine tuned to the point I have pretty much a traditional workflow. I have 2 patches - thats it. One based on a nice clean amp - with 4 drive models, and some FX - and the other based on valve amp distortion, with a boost level and FX. I havent really tinkered with that for 2 years - and then it was due to moving from the AFX2 to the AFX3. My previous AFX2 setup hadnt been tinkered with for 4 years or so.
More modern digital AMPS are tuned for that digital/power amp into speaker methodology - and I genuinely feel they are better than the cheaper NON AMP BASED digital modelling solutions when it comes to noodling and the live feel, and do feel if you have an amp you like -t hen a digital solution isnt going to improve that really. It adds flexibility is all.
Helix LT, but I’ve always clung on to using an amp. I’m thinking of trying it properly and going direct.
I know It can work for me, I like the Helix stuff and know how to use it. I just like amps and pedals so I need to get over that! I’m honestly sick of carrying stuff too.
The basic tone is now very good, but they sit in the mix in a mushy, flat kind of way, and somehow lack the feel and organic nature of an amp and pedals.
They are great for home use - great tone at low volume, and for recording (hard to tell the difference when listening back).
But for playing with others live, I still much prefer an amp.
Having said that....
https://guitar.com/news/music-news/jim-root-is-using-neural-dsp-quad-cortex-live-slipknot/
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The Opus I had previously sounded guff in comparison.
Conversely, you always wonder whether there is another amp or cab combination in it that is like some kinda secret magic bullet for tonal nirvana. So you keep trawling through the (far too) many options. Then you compare your new preset to your old one and it sounds basically the same or a bit worse.
Valve amp FTW.
would it work with something like the Friedman IRX preamp pedal or the UA preamp pedals?