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Double the measurement. That’ll give you your scale length.
Then measure the doubled figure from edge of nut and see where it lands around the saddles. If its miles off from wherever the string would come off the saddles then theres probably bigger problemos.
However, if the scale length lands around the saddles range of movement, it should be able to intonate fine.
Have you set the rest of the guitar up? Neck relief, string height, pickup height etc? All of those can make for innacuracies in intonation in my experience.
Are the strings new and fully stretched in too?
Also a recent tip I’ve learned. When tuning, switch to neck pickup and roll your tone pot off. It doesnt change the note of course, but It helps the tuner pickup the note a little better. Something about reduced harmonics or frequencies..
My low E would bounce around a lot on the tuner, but by doing the above the tuner has a much easier time detecting it.
You can flip the saddles around for a little more range one way or the other, but I’d check those other things first!
I have just measured the distance from the nut (fingerboard side) to the 12th fret & it is about 31cm.
62cm is over 1cm forward of where the strings come off the saddles with the saddles as far forward as they will go.
I had already set up relief, string height, pup height.
I just measured my other Hohner & from the nut to the 12th fret is again about 31cm but 62cm falls about in the middle or slightly forward of the saddles movement range & that one intonates fine.
Does the bridge need moving forward around 1.5cm then ?
I’m no tech, but I’m sure the scale length should sit within the range of the saddles movement. Unless your neck is bowed to an extreme that is.. which it doesnt sound to be.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along soon to see my original post and correct me if I’m wrong, but to my knowledge if the measured scale length is that far off the saddles, it sounds like somethings not been put together in the right place..
Fixing it at the neck joint is likely to be easier and less obvious than moving the bridge.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I have swapped pups, pots, harnesses, nuts, bridges, tuners but have never swapped a neck or altered a necks length.
I suspect that ICBM is on the right track. The screwed-on neck is not sitting in the pocket properly. Could be a bodged attempt at shimming. Could be a Höhner neck on a body of a different brand.
One way in which the T-o-M bridge could contribute to intonation problems is if the stud posts are being pulled towards the neck.
I was always really dubious of this "magnetic pull from the pickups" lark - it's hardly a tractor beam - but then I had a strat which wouldn't intonate, and someone (Marc Skreddy - clang) suggested dropping the pickups a bit. Worked like a charm.
All strings fretted on the 12th are slightly flat but there is no more forward movement left on the saddles.
Flipping the bridge may be awkward as it looks like the strings may foul the adjustment screws as they run back to the stop tail, but I will have a look.
I may try a different T-O-M as they are only cheap.
So, flipping the bridge would shorten the G, B, E string length more than the knife edge saddles. Would only take 5 minutes to try it, and the saddles could be set for shortest overall string length off the guitar.