It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
(formerly miserneil)
(formerly miserneil)
(formerly miserneil)
One day...love to order!
Jon
Thanks guys, appreciate the kind words!
(formerly miserneil)
LUCKILY the truss rod anchor was right under the last, cracked inlay so the idea was to remove the broken inlay and go in underneath it negating the need to remove the fretboard.
After removing the frets and the inlay an initial inspection reveals that two pieces of rosewood have cracked along the grain lines so they are carefully removed and stored safely as I'll be able to glue them back in place and the join will be invisible. It also give me a bit more room to work.
I then take the dremel and route down and carefully around both sides of the truss rod and anchor. Once I expose the rod, I push the anchor back to where it should be...
....and cut a new piece of maple to fit around the rod and keep it in place.
This is then glued in along with a further piece shaped tightly around the anchor.
The two small pieces of rosewood are replaced, the crack in the board is glued and clamped tightly overnight which brings it closer to its original position. A tickle with a radius block the following morning brings us back to where we should be:
The rosewood dust is used to fill in any rosewood chips around the fret slots, the original frets are replaced (on the customers request) and the missing binding is replaced and then aged to matched the existing...
And we have a 1970 Jazz with a fully working rod again
(formerly miserneil)
As an example, I took the neck P90 out of the guitar documented below to check that there wasn't further damage inside:
So, not only have they got 10mm between the wall of the P90 route and the 22nd fret but also the void that the P90 route leaves which goes below the maple truss rod fillet...probably about 8mm at the bottom of that tenon....it hasn't really got that much chance, has it?!
And this leads me perfectly on to my next repair thread....
I recently had a 1959 DC Special come in that was unbroken and all original down to the last screw until an unnamed courier decided to use it as a football and it picked up a neck fracture:
It wasn't a bad break, i've certainly seen worse. I was able to open the crack enough and, with the aid of a drinking straw, blow and wick enough glue into the crack then clamp it overnight to stabilise it. I was able to re-flow the original lacquer, keeping the colour transitions of the already faded cherry with just a minimal amount of new clear to smooth things out again.
(formerly miserneil)