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But you can use any oil and osmo does have less of a tint
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I used it a lot when I was working at the wood shop (so did everyone else there)..
They have like 100 different types though. The build I am doing at the moment I am thinking of using Osmo PolyX Clear... Some of their oils darken wood some dont... The oils that are white in colour are good for light woods...
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https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/202071/nco
Generally, for a satin finish, I would use the Polyx Satin 3032. But, if I wanted the colour to be pretty close to the fresh-sanded colour I would use their pretty unique Polyx RAW 3044 (they sell it in small tins).
It is specifically made to try to retain the fresh sanded colour of light woods. While it does contain a whitener, if it is applied thinly enough (wipe on then wipe fully off), then it can be used over darker timbers without showing the whitener.
This was freshly sanded sycamore body wings and maple thru-fretboard:
This was the sycamore and maple with Tru-oil. It is not a heavy tint but the Tru-oil and dampening brings out the yellow in the timber:
This was after I sanded it back down and applied Osmo RAW 3044:
This even had ebony on the back. As long as the Osmo is wiped on then off, it stays black:
So if it was me trying to do what you asked, I would scrape the binding areas, apply a couple of wipe on wipe off to those areas (let dry in between) and then finish the whole guitar, including the binding, with the standard Polyx Satin 3032. The 3032 won't penetrate the layer of 3044 and so your light binding should stay light.
Osmo actually have a pretty decent web site.. For each finish they show you a video of that particular finish being wiped on to a wooden floor so you get to see the wood before and after... Most of their oils are very good.
I did a couple of walnut doors for my sister a few weeks ago and she oiled it herself and got in contact with Osmo. Apparently they were very helpful Home - Osmo UK
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Polyx-Oil Effect Raw - Osmo UK
http://www.rabswoodguitars.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/RabsWoodGuitars/
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Thank you for the useful information!
Since I'll be sanding a black area, that is a perfect solution, as the whitener would provide good contrast (and fit the neck binding colour) while not staining the black.
Two questions though:
You state I'll need to finish the whole guitar with the Polyx satin 3032. Do you actually mean the whole guitar or just blending it with the body around the faux binding?
The guitar is already finished in gloss nitro, will covering it with satin coats actually stick?
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/202071/nco
https://osmouk.com/faq/wood/polyx-oil-raw-3044-vs-tints-white-3040/
Seems like a good way to get an even lighter finish, and it would not require a top oil as they suggest to use it as a stand alone with a two coat application.
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/202071/nco
Just like pine. Looks white when unfinished but as soon as any finish hits it it jumps to yellow. Maple isn't as severe as that but can already vary from silver white to Amber in its raw state
You then have to consider the natural ageing of the wood. That white pine or maple will yellow even without a finish just from UV, and then the finish will yellow it even more.
The osmo raw does seem good at stopping the yellowing effect of the finish. I wonder if it also stops the yellowing effect of UV on the wood over time.
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Once you have sealed the binding with the oil, what were your thoughts in terms of what to do next?
The sycamore bass was built around 5 years ago. I saw it recently and it's the same colour as it was.
Two other full build I've seen since I did using the RAW version was using some English Walnut about 4 years ago. This was the fresh sanded walnut on one of them:
And this was with the Polyx 3044 applied:
I've seen this one fairly recently too and it is pretty much the same now as it was then. Whether it is the same in 40 years rather than 4 is anybody's guess, of course
I was so impressed with it, though, that I used it for a full-wall bookcase made from Canadian pine we had built in our front room. That sits in full sunlight (well, being Derby, daylight is a more accurate term) every day and still looks pretty much the same as it did when I did it, again around 5 years ago.
Either oil the exposed maple cap and leave it like that or add nitro coat and buff.
But, the Osmo does look like a great solution, just need to decide on the 3044/3032 VS double 3040 route.
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/202071/nco
http://www.rabswoodguitars.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/RabsWoodGuitars/
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Although I think you are crazy for trying to keep the raw wood colour in Walnut..... i love the rich depth of colour it gets when oiled.
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And it's a long story...so might be worth pulling up a chair.
The guy who I built this for, Mike, a number of years earlier had written and got published a biography of his friend, Merv, who was - man and boy - a woodcutter in the South West (we're talking lumberjack axeman type of woodcutter). The walnut was from the last tree that Merv chopped down before he retired.
When Merv died, Mike inherited the log and it had been sitting in his family home on show for a decade or so.
Mike asked me if it was possible to build a bass from it - but specifically wanted it to look the same colour as when it was in the lounge. I tried the, 'You can't imagine how this will come to life with a normal finish that deepens and darkens walnut as good as any wood I know.' No - it had to remain the same colour as in its log form.
And so - if you're still awake - that's why I used Osmo RAW
Edit:
Here's Merv 1948
And shortly before he retired in 2004
And apols to @NCo ; for the fairly comprehensive thread hijack