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Gotcha, many thanks.
My own V100 (iced tea) appears to have a cap and a veneer ... though the finish is so thick it's difficult to tell. It's as heavy as plutonium ... but I think the construction may be like a 70s Norlin: a one piece back cap ... to make it look like the whole guitar is one piece of mahogany ... with the join hidden in the tinted finish on the rounded over back body edge. The bulk of the body will then be made of several mahogany pieces ... with their face covered by the cap or veneer, or combination thereof.
If that's the case with yours, I'd buy a cheap couple of bits of plain maple veneer ... put the join where Lucy's was ... and give it a tinted, oil finish on top of that (or nitro if you're feeling brave) and the job's a goodun. I very much doubt that the mahogany bits alone will be very pretty
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog 7 String.org profile and message
I hadn't even thought of putting my own veneer on there.
I've never done it before, is it a tricky job on a guitar that's already bound, routed, drilled etc?
Thanks rpr (and @Andyjr1515 )
That looks more straight forward than I thought.
It might even be less work than removing every last bit of veneer and fine sanding it back to a perfectly smooth surface.
Drillings and cavities are no problem ... you just veneer over them then use a scalpel to cut out the oles
I bought an old Shergold bass years ago that started me on veneering. Someone had cut all sorts of punk slogans into the front of it ... then finished it off with house paint! I stripped, skimmed and filled the top, then applied a book matched burr olive wood veneer. I then stained the top blue and gave it a burst to hide the edges.
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog 7 String.org profile and message
Hmm, yes. Will the veneer behave over the carved top?
Obvs I couldn't use my domestic iron. I have a heat gun, but I imagine I'd risk discolouring the veneer at best, and setting fire to the veneer/guitar/house at worst.
Would a hair dryer help!?!?
(nice Shergold btw @theguitarweasel !)
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog 7 String.org profile and message
Don't mention the war! )
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog 7 String.org profile and message
I'm pressing on...
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt192/p1eces/20131202_121418.jpg
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt192/p1eces/20131202_121430.jpg
Thats the best idea really, any finish you put on will work better if its all going over the same type of wood.
I bet the lack of the maple top is the reason they blacked out the cavities under the guise of "sheilding"
You may need to even up the wood colour first as it looks like you have some lighter sap wood appearing on the bass side, there are many ways to do this but i would try this - just for the top
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-Wood-Bleach-Set-RUSWBSET/dp/B002HMVZW6
It should give you a very light straw colour on mahogany, almost like korina, be a good starting place for your colour of choice
Instagram
@WezV - Yeah, maybe they're hiding the timbers, the sods!
It seems to be two pieces, and as you say, the bass side bit seems VERY varied in colour. You can see the light area on the 'shoulder', and there's another one in the forearm region by the looks of it.
The original Lucy clearly has it's own colour variation, with the dark stripe on the bass side. Once the veneer is all off, I'll have to make a decision as to whether to let my guitar have it's own natural colour variations 'in the spirit of' the original, or whether to bleach the lot and then recreate the distinctive dark stripe with the stain.
@Hymnal - Glad you're enjoying it, but be prepared for it to take ages, I only have the odd hour here and there to work on it!