The world of Wez :)

paulnb57

Do you use double sided tape to hold the body to the worktop?

WezV

Yes, although I also had some wood wedges holding it during routing as extra insurance

paulnb57

Thanks Wez, I have a piece of worktop and some other parts in th'shed to make a router sled.....

WezV

time to jump ahead a few steps because i forgot to take pics

the front is now veneered and its time to choose a bridge.  either a hardtail or a recessed TOM will work - here are some spare bridge i have lying around

fender style hardtail, this is a really cheap example but it does show it may be a little small.  on the other hand a small bridge will show more of the finish.  a hipshot version may be nice

maybe a schaller 3D-6 - a very easy bridge to use, although it works best witht he saddles high as its a toploader and doesn't give much downward pressure when set low.  They would be on the upper half of the travel here so it would be fine - just worth mentioning. 

maybe TOM with ferrules - the bridge would need recessing, but that's no bother and the string through ferrules will still give good downward pressure.  yes, i know there are only 5 showing there, its just to give an idea

the back routes have also been fully filled,and here I have just veneered the centre section 

nutbox

Very cool work wez,what thickness veneer did you use? I need to block a single pickup route on a HSH body I am doing ,so this is good inspiration. Cheers dazz

WezV

I used 1.5mm constructional veneer for this.

WezV

If you are blocking the middle pickup between two humbuckers its much easier anyway. you don't need to go to the extent I did here to hide end grain joins

Roland

How did you deal with the veneer over the forearm chamfer?

WezV

I didn't. just veneered the flat surfaces and blended new wood into old

This contour curves around so veneering will have been difficult. I could have flattened off the contour so it was a straight bend but that would change the look of the guitar

vaticancameos

WezV said:

Ohhhhhhhh yes! 

WezV

well in other news I have finally started to progress the acoustic build a bit more,

I keep restarting this, but its all good practice.

I have bent a new set of sides, this time out of bloodwood, they are about 90% done but still need some work in the cutaway, i got the really tight bend done okay, but just need to get it to meet the neck block nicely.  anyway, I think I am finally getting the hang of bending tricky woods.  I used some veneer softener spray rather than pure water  to help.

the bloodwood is very stripy and variegated , so it should look like raspberry ripple   

I also cut the soundhole and did its inlay and carved the neck and shaped the headstock - quite a lot of work, its all in clamps now but i will get pics later

WezV

this is the back waiting to be cut out

and the neck carved

you may notice the neck doesn't not look like most acoustics after the heel.  my plan is for a totally bolt on neck similar to a taylor, so this is my starting point for a diy version

Shark_Eyes

The bloodwood sounds really interesting. Looking forward to seeing some pics.

WezV

the pic of the bloodwood doesn't catch how vibrant the colour is - really hoping it will be clear when its finished.  Bloodwood is good for retaining its brightness, unlike other "red" woods

nutbox

WezV said:

If you are blocking the middle pickup between two humbuckers its much easier anyway. you don't need to go to the extent I did here to hide end grain joins

Cheers wezz looking good.

WezV

i wanted something simple, but a little different for the soundhole decoration.  not totally sure about it yet.

i also added the main x-brace, just roughly shaped at this point

and i took a quick pic of the sides too

there is a lot of staining from the veneer softener at the moment but that should mostly clear by itself in a day or two... and then sanding will do the rest. i got the really tight bit of the cutaway done, but not the bit going to the neck block because i need to trim the end slightly more first so it will fit in the mold.

WezV

FYI, the top on this will be mostly flat rather than the usual slight dome.  back will still be domed to a 15' radius

I am keeping the top flat because it makes the fanned fret neck angle geometry a bit simpler  

Mkjackary

Wez, check your pms 

WezV

started a pedal build - Its the BYOC octave scrambler kit

nutbox

Cool is that egg from a computer game , ?
I can't remember what it was called