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But you are far more likely to recover shadow detail than do anything with a burnt out highlight.
Tell you what is though - people using that photoshop technique to get even skin texture. I've done it myself, and without fail, it looks bloody awful, very strange indeed. It's where you are effectively softening the colour layer, but then duplicating a texture layer.
The effect is people with perfect pores covering 100 percent of their face. It looks very strange, and immediately puts me off any portrait, which is a shame - I would say I probably prefer the soft focus look!
If there is one Photoshop tool I'd remove it is that smart blur/Gaussian blur tool. Grr.
He was the Serge Ramelli of his generation.
I think I prefer plain blur to the modern frequency separation technique... But not by much.
I do use some very limited skin softening techniques, but it's to improve, not perfect. A black hair coming out of a mole isn't what people want but they do want skin to look real.
I really like the skin softening tool in nik. It is far too powerful and makes everything look plastic, but you can either use 1-2 percent and careful masking in nik (which is easy) or it can be a smart layer in photoshop.
The whole NIK package is pretty cool. I'm glad I downloaded it when it was free.
I think it is now paid for again?
But you can still find downloads of the old Google version which still works. I use the Google version within Affinity Photo.
Until recently that is - I picked up Luminar 4 - and that does some of the same things and is more modern.
https://www.wexphotovideo.com/vanguard-veo-2-go-235ab-aluminium-travel-tripod-1705093/
Yeah, it's kinda pricey. But it's small, light, sturdy enough for the canon 6D DSLR and smaller lens. Perfect for a mirrorless camera.
Has grippy rubber feet you can screw in to reveal studs for when you're on the beach.
It's a lot of money new, but you'd be amazed what you can find on ebay.
I really want to escape adobe but nothing does what lightroom does yet
I tried capture 1 a couple of years back and it was like a shit version of lightroom with brilliant developing. I honestly wanted both, but wallet dictated only one and lightroom works better.
So most of my photos are raw adjustments in lightroom, then into photoshop to use the NIK suite where needed.
I've got that, Luminar 4, and Affinity Photo. I've no need for an Adobe sub again.
Enjoying my XT-20 but I do miss the reach of longer lenses I had with my DSLR.
I have the XF 18-55, but would like something around 300mm aps-c
Wondering what the options are, I used to like a bit of casual wildlife/bird photography. I'm thinking perhaps an x-mount adapter to open up a world of other lenses, if so which to choose? I appreciate this would probably mean manual focus only.
Other options are go back to DSLR or one of the 1" superzoom cameras. Not sure I'd part with the Fuji as I like it, but there seems to be nothing but quite expensive options with their lenses, so thinking about a 2nd camera which might be cheaper than a 2nd lens. (I'm thinking the XC50-230 hasn't got quite enough reach and is a bit slow at the long end anyway).
Thoughts?
They do a prime 200 as well iirc but that's about 5k iirc.
Also going to be announced in the next week or so is the new 70-300mm f/4-5.6 - which covers some range that's been absent from Fuji cameras at a decent price point. This lens will be compatible with the 1.4x and 2.0x teleconverters. I expect this lens to be much less expensive than the 100-400mm or 50-140mm.
I've got the 50-140mm f/2.8 but it was bonkers expensive even used. Am tempted to trade it in and get the 70-300mm as that's something I'm likely to get more use out of.
While I await that I’m thinking of a prime, probably around 23mm. There are some quite good value manual options - Zonlai 22m f1.8, 7artisans 25mm f1.8 and Meike 25mm 1.8 so looking at those. Or might just go for the 23mm F2.
The xf18-55 is great though, but learnt on a manual prime so they always have a bit of attraction.
Thanks, chaps.