First Build - DC Junior

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  • NPPNPP Frets: 236
    PeteC said:
    Thanks - yes the grain varies so much in density that a stain would be very hard to get even I bet.  
    I am keen to try the oil slurry method so long as I can tint the oil to make the wood a nice honey brown. I do have a tin of Danish Oil sitting in the shed I could use.   Ordering stuff online is now turning into a battle with even small stuff taking ages to turn up because of postal disruption and short staffing. Junior build No.1 has stalled because my stain hasn't turned up.   Maybe the the Danish will save my bacon and I can crack on with the Idigbo junior instead for now.   Need to read up on some past WezV threads !!

    Any advice welcome though  :)

    cheers . Pete 

    I used this method on my Strat, without a tint though. There's an old thread with a summary in this post: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/404974/#Comment_404974 which shows that it's really quite simple. 

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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Question about compensated bridge for the second DC build....

    I have a reasonable Gretch compensated bridge I'd like to try on my new build.   Should I still locate the bridge studs using the vintage angle approach, or should it be square to the centre line ?   Its likely that if I don't like the Gretch I may go back to a faber Ali non comp bridge - or shell out for a PRS compensated wraparound like on my McCarty. ( spendy though !!)  The height of the Gretch looks to be absolutely spot on for the neck angle on this build. 


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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1487
    Only thing with that bridge is that it is compensated for a wound G.  Typically, the compensated bridges are straighter than the uncompensated.  
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    edited April 2020
    Cheers @PhilKing ;;
    - you're right !! I hadn't noticed that !!   What a plonker....  


    I do have another Faber uncompensated - but that doesn't even have grub screws for adjustment. 
    I have thought about bunging it in the drill press and tapping some 2.5mm grub screw holes to make it adjustable.  Meantime I will search for another compensated bridge as I want to use a set of 42 - 9s on this guitar.   I'll stick a WTB on the classifieds. 
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    just remembered I also have a cheap Wilkinson compensated that I could use for the time being - so the question remains ...go with vintage tailpiece angle before drilling the studs do you reckon ?  


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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1487
    edited April 2020
    If you use a compensated, then the angle is much straighter to the line of the pickup.  Almost parallel.  A non-compensated needs a bit more angle, so it's a tough call.  I actually prefer the non-compensated at an angle.
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Thanks Phil - Im thinking it over.....just going to measure out the calculated bridge position carefully today using the guidance notes in the pdf I have and weigh up my options.  
    I do like the first one I did with a non compensated faber Ali tailpiece. I don't seem to have much of an intonation issue even with some pretty complex chords high up the neck. 

    I just thought it might be worth trying a compensated bridge on the second build to see what difference it makes - but also want to be able to revert if its no better.    Cant have it both ways I guess ! 


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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1487
    I have a few vintage Gibsons with non-compensated wraparounds and never worry about the intonation.  I play mainly rock and blues and if it's off a bit I can either bend it or ignore it.  Most people at a gig won't notice and usually if I'm playing up the neck, it's lead anyway and I will definitely be bending the strings.
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Thanks for the advice @PhilKing,   

    I've decided to position the bushings for the bridge studs so I can used the vintage style non-compensated Faber Ali tailpiece

    Oddly,  this one doesn't have any grub screws for adjustment (another rushed purchase without checking properly !!) ) so I am going to drill and tap the bridge for a couple of 3mm grub screws so I can adjust it somewhat.   When I measured up for the Wilkinson compensated bridge the bridge break points (i.e. where the strings would effectively be "saddled" meant that the posts would have been fitted in very different positions to the faber because of the geometry of the Wilkinson bridge. Much further forward. That would make it hard to swap out for other bridges in future ( eg a PRS or Pigtail )  I'd rather stick with something nearer vintage spec and drill the tailpiece myself for now.

    I have the kit to drill and tap the tailpiece so its no big problem ( unless I screw it up of course ! ) 

    Btw - I enjoy your Youtube content a lot. 




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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1487
    Wish it was me on YouTube.  Unfortunately it's not. tbh, I'd never looked my name up on YouTube!
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7072
    tFB Trader
    PeteC said:
    I have the kit to drill and tap the tailpiece so its no big problem ( unless I screw it up of course ! ) 
    I've done that before now. You might find that the plating delaminates a little around the hole
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  • sawyersawyer Frets: 732
    My Junior has the vintage angled uncompensated bridge and it sounds great.  No issues at all to worry about. 
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    cheers guys.  Good to know @SteveRobinson ;.    yes,  @sawyer,  the first build I did just has the uncompensated angled tailpiece and is pretty well intoned tbh. 

    @PhilKing ;
     - Apologies - I was sure it must have been you.   =)

    off to drill and tap some holes now, I bet it will takes weeks for the 2 bloody grub screws to arrive in the mail though !!

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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7072
    tFB Trader
    I'll send some M3 grub screws if you like?
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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1487
    No worries.  If you really want a compensated tailpiece, I have a Gibson one here that I've never used.  I got it years ago thinking I'd replace one of the originals with it, but never did.  The only problem is that I'm in the States.  If you can't get one there though, let me know.

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  • robertyroberty Frets: 10893
    I love uncompensated wraparounds. There's something about them
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Thanks for the offers guys... @SteveRobinson i might take you up on the screws if you’re sure that’s ok?  lead times look to be shocking due to c-19 on the ones I’ve just been looking at.    
    Faber tailpiece drilled just now and very pleased how neat the mod was. 

    And guys - If you have any pics of the vintage juniors in your possession please feel free post em on the thread - I can’t get enough of them !  

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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1487
    Not all juniors, but all of them are wraparounds

    The oldest is my birth year 54 Goldtop, the newest is the @WezV neck through DC with a Mojo Blade P-90.

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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7072
    tFB Trader
    I'll stick a couple of different lengths in the post tomorrow
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16772
    PhilKing said:
    Not all juniors, but all of them are wraparounds

    The oldest is my birth year 54 Goldtop, the newest is the @WezV neck through DC with a Mojo Blade P-90.

    I'd almost forgotten about the singlecut junior
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