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I have a reasonable Gretch compensated bridge I'd like to try on my new build. Should I still locate the bridge studs using the vintage angle approach, or should it be square to the centre line ? Its likely that if I don't like the Gretch I may go back to a faber Ali non comp bridge - or shell out for a PRS compensated wraparound like on my McCarty. ( spendy though !!) The height of the Gretch looks to be absolutely spot on for the neck angle on this build.
- you're right !! I hadn't noticed that !! What a plonker....
I do have another Faber uncompensated - but that doesn't even have grub screws for adjustment.
I have thought about bunging it in the drill press and tapping some 2.5mm grub screw holes to make it adjustable. Meantime I will search for another compensated bridge as I want to use a set of 42 - 9s on this guitar. I'll stick a WTB on the classifieds.
I do like the first one I did with a non compensated faber Ali tailpiece. I don't seem to have much of an intonation issue even with some pretty complex chords high up the neck.
I just thought it might be worth trying a compensated bridge on the second build to see what difference it makes - but also want to be able to revert if its no better. Cant have it both ways I guess !
I've decided to position the bushings for the bridge studs so I can used the vintage style non-compensated Faber Ali tailpiece
Oddly, this one doesn't have any grub screws for adjustment (another rushed purchase without checking properly !!) ) so I am going to drill and tap the bridge for a couple of 3mm grub screws so I can adjust it somewhat. When I measured up for the Wilkinson compensated bridge the bridge break points (i.e. where the strings would effectively be "saddled" meant that the posts would have been fitted in very different positions to the faber because of the geometry of the Wilkinson bridge. Much further forward. That would make it hard to swap out for other bridges in future ( eg a PRS or Pigtail ) I'd rather stick with something nearer vintage spec and drill the tailpiece myself for now.
I have the kit to drill and tap the tailpiece so its no big problem ( unless I screw it up of course ! )
Btw - I enjoy your Youtube content a lot.
@PhilKing
- Apologies - I was sure it must have been you.
off to drill and tap some holes now, I bet it will takes weeks for the 2 bloody grub screws to arrive in the mail though !!
The oldest is my birth year 54 Goldtop, the newest is the @WezV neck through DC with a Mojo Blade P-90.
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