First Build - DC Junior

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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Made a scratch plate from....er..... scratch....
    and now its looking more like a junior. 

    Filling, staining and spraying next while build number 2 gets its neck shaped. 


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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 3127
    That's looking really, really nice :)
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  • greggreg66greggreg66 Frets: 503
    Looks awesome Pete... can tell that it's going to look ridiculously good once stained and sprayed!
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  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2925
    tFB Trader

    Looking good Pete!

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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Quick question for the panel.....

    while I am waiting for stains and finishes to arrive ( and thinking about ordering Nitro sprays ) i have been making some progress on number 2.    Mostly neck shaping this weekend. 

    But I need some noobie advice if anyone can help me out....

    I have had the neck in and out of the pocket too many times to check the break angle over the P90 , and what was a very tight fit indeed is now an easy fit and although not loose, not really a great snug fit. 

    Should I plane a couple of nice thin mahogany shavings and glue to the sides of the heel and resend down to a tight fit before I glue the neck in?  Or if it’s a good fit but an “easy” fit should I worry less and just glue the bugger in ?   

    Cheers 
    Pete 


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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7032
    tFB Trader
    I'd say glue it in. You need to be able to get some glue in the joint, too tight and you squeeze it all out and just have wood meeting wood with no glue betwixt the two.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16681
    try wiping the wood with a damp cloth first.  It might be enough to swell any compressed wood and get you back to where you were.  You tend to find wood glue will do this anyway so i really don't think you have an issue

    lots of people like to show tight neck joins they can pick the guitar up by with no glue.... if you try gluing in like that  it can sometimes get stuck halfway in and not seat properly.  much better to have a snug fit than a tight fit
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2403
    Not sure if it applies to the dc, but on a strat a too tight neck to pocket can cause finish cracks in the horns 
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  • greggreg66greggreg66 Frets: 503
    What Steve and Wez said, you don't want it too tight else it'll squeeze the glue out.... and you may not even be able to get it all the way in. Having a easy fit is totally fine. Again to echo Wez the moisture from the glue will also swell it slightly. I made a bench recently with a beautifully tight dado joint, put glue on, couldn't get it together as it swelled microamounts and it ended not so great haha!!
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Cheers fellas - I always know where I’m going to get the best advice .....

    neck shaping finished earlier so just the tuner holes to drill tonight then the necks going on. 

    All the best, Pete 
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  • TJT1979TJT1979 Frets: 188
    I'd agree - as long as it's snug and not loose, the glue should be fine.

    I am actually writing to say thanks for taking the time to post all this. Much appreciated!
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Cheers, @TJT1979 ;

    Neck meets body........no going back now.

    now for the overnight wait.....

     
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  • sawyersawyer Frets: 732
    This is looking fantastic! 
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Quick update.    Neck glued in nicely and touted flat to the body.   Test fitting the P90 I had. Same issue I had with the first built that the cover didn’t sit flat to the body ( despite the Oil City P90 being a wonderful pick up ! ) so I decided to recess the dog ear mounts very slightly    Cover now sits very nicely flush to the body and I have a couple of mm of extra action for the bridge adjustments . 

    I am thinking on this guitar it would be good to go for a natural finish like the Korina Vs and such but not sure where to start with that !?   
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  • NPPNPP Frets: 236
    looks great!

    WezV's oil slurry method for the finish? 

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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Cheers @NPPI will look into that.  
    I do want a colour darker than the natural idigbo ( which is quite light and a bit yellow ) though - kind of like this - perhaps even a shade darker if poss. 

    https://distinctiveguitar.com/electrics/rock-n-roll-relics/rock-n-roll-relics-thunders-ii-dc-natural-korina/





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  • NPPNPP Frets: 236
    that's a nice colour indeed. Oil is available in many colours, the trick would be to know which one would produce the desired effect on your particular guitar - perhaps @WezV himself has some ideas on this?

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16681
    edited April 2020
    I would be careful with a direct stain on idigbo, test on scrap .   I don't think you would get an even stain on some bits

    Tinted oil or lacquer will allow a more consistent colour to be built up
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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Thanks - yes the grain varies so much in density that a stain would be very hard to get even I bet.  
    I am keen to try the oil slurry method so long as I can tint the oil to make the wood a nice honey brown. I do have a tin of Danish Oil sitting in the shed I could use.   Ordering stuff online is now turning into a battle with even small stuff taking ages to turn up because of postal disruption and short staffing. Junior build No.1 has stalled because my stain hasn't turned up.   Maybe the the Danish will save my bacon and I can crack on with the Idigbo junior instead for now.   Need to read up on some past WezV threads !!

    Any advice welcome though  :)

    cheers . Pete 

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  • greggreg66greggreg66 Frets: 503
    Looking ace Pete! 

    My preference would be to spray it. There's a way to get an even stain finish by spraying it on, but you need a booth and the kit... if you have that I could explain it? 

    Not that I've tried it, but would Rubio Monocoat be an option? I don't know loads about it but it's a well regarded finish and comes in a range of colours?
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