What is a simple paint job / Finish to do?

RaymondLin

A few years ago I got a HB telecaster kit from Thomanns that is still unopened, I guess now is as good time as any to put it together but I want to paint the body White.

I like to do it like this semi-translucent look, what tools/paint do I need?  Cheap as possible, I am not bothered if it isn't 100% perfect.  One thing I don't want is a sticky paint finish.  Is there a clear coat that I need to apply afterward?

Jalapeno

Nitro lacquer from a rattle can (wear a proper mask) to finish off.  I found Poly lacquer too soft.

Alternatively if the wood is in any way presentable then 10-12 coats of gun oil is easiest (if time consuming doing the rub downs after it dries - 100s of videos on YouTube)

TTony

What's the body wood like on your actual kit  - ie is it worth showing off, or should it be covered up??

If the former, I'd use  a Crimson stain with finishing oil over the top - cheap, and easy.

Or you could try one of the Osmo stains, particularly if you want a white-ish finish like the image above.

SteveRobinson

As @TTony says, how about wipe on Osmo Oil (white)?
https://vanillawoodfloors.co.uk/osmo-polyx-oil-tints

I've never tried Osmo but it seems about as simple as it gets.

Roland

I love Osmo PolyX. Oil finishes are easier than paint, and Osmo is easier to use than Tru-Oil. For colour you can mix in your own pigments. I’ve only used oil paint pigments, which are normally solid colour, but used thinly enough they allow the wood to shine through. You should also be able to source proper translucent pigments.

RaymondLin

Roland said:

I love Osmo PolyX. Oil finishes are easier than paint, and Osmo is easier to use than Tru-Oil. For colour you can mix in your own pigments. I’ve only used oil paint pigments, which are normally solid colour, but used thinly enough they allow the wood to shine through. You should also be able to source proper translucent pigments.

Thanks all.

How would I mix it? as in ratio?  When you say oil paint, like B&Q Dulux or are there specific paint I should be looking at.

When it is done, do I still need to apply a layer of nitro lacquer from a can?

CasperCaster

RaymondLin said:

Roland said:

I love Osmo PolyX. Oil finishes are easier than paint, and Osmo is easier to use than Tru-Oil. For colour you can mix in your own pigments. I’ve only used oil paint pigments, which are normally solid colour, but used thinly enough they allow the wood to shine through. You should also be able to source proper translucent pigments.

Thanks all.

How would I mix it? as in ratio?  When you say oil paint, like B&Q Dulux or are there specific paint I should be looking at.

When it is done, do I still need to apply a layer of nitro lacquer from a can?

I believe oil paint refers to artists oil paints, not domestic paints like Dulux. Oils like Osmo Polyx are durable and 'cure' much the same as paint i.e. they don't need to be lacquered over, they are instead of lacquer. If I remember correctly Osmo Polyx is usually used for finishing stripped wooden floors, so certainly durable. There was a thread on alternatives to Wudtone finishes a few years ago which had lots of info. If I can find it I'll post a link.

CasperCaster

Here you go. Quite a long thread but some useful info from @Jez6345789 on page 3 if you follow the discussion to that point.

https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/76402/wudtone-black-magic-woman-finish-any-experience/p1

Roland

RaymondLin said:

How would I mix it? as in ratio?  When you say oil paint, like B&Q Dulux or are there specific paint I should be looking at.

Artists’ oil paint pigments. You’ll have to judge the mix ratio depending on the colour, and the density of the pigment. For example, Titanium White and Lead White are similar colours but different colour densities. The good thing with an oil finish is that you can build the colour density up with layers, so err on the dilute side and you can add more. The colours on this ark were built up. The first layer was semi-transparent. The second layer was actually weaker. Together they became sufficiently opaque, but still let the wood grain show.

RaymondLin

Roland said:

RaymondLin said:

How would I mix it? as in ratio?  When you say oil paint, like B&Q Dulux or are there specific paint I should be looking at.

Artists’ oil paint pigments. You’ll have to judge the mix ratio depending on the colour, and the density of the pigment. For example, Titanium White and Lead White are similar colours but different colour densities. The good thing with an oil finish is that you can build the colour density up with layers, so err on the dilute side and you can add more. The colours on this ark were built up. The first layer was semi-transparent. The second layer was actually weaker. Together they became sufficiently opaque, but still let the wood grain show.

How did you apply it? Sponge? 

Jez6345789

Old lint free T-shirt just make a basic rubber and apply light coats.
you can mix it up say 50 or 100 ml polyox then start adding controlled amounts then mix wipe a little on to some scrap until you get the mix you want.

YellowLedBetterMan

Try rustoleum colourwash and  good clearcoat over it maybe?

Roland

RaymondLin said:

How did you apply it? Sponge? 

Soft brush

dchwhite

If feedback from someone with zero finishing skills is of any use - about a hundred years ago, Jooky very kindly sent me some hard wax oil to try on a Tele body. I liked the results on the front and back, but managed to bodge the sides somehow, and it's only now in lockdown I've got some time to try and sort it out. 

Unfortunately, I don't actually know what I did wrong, and so have successfully repeated whatever the error was. The front and back are exactly what I was hoping for, but it just wouldn't 'take' on the edges for some reason. I have tried sanding off the worst runs and blobs, and (just to compound whatever the original mistake was) I'm trying to patch the sides with a different brand (Fiddes), but it's not very much better. I'm not into relic finishes at all, but the sides looked much better just being sanded down, so I think it's either live with a 'worn' look or maybe flog on and let someone else have a go. 

Good luck with whatever you decide anyway

RaymondLin

I have decided to go spray paint, just to be lazy...will these work?

Sandpaper to smooth it down first, then spray a couple of coats of the blue (decided to go for this), to sort of recreate this Nash guitar that I almost bought once upon a time.

For the headstock, what can I use for the finish? Just the Lacquer or the Osmo oil?  Thanks

GoldenEraGuitars

I believe that the cellulose clear coat will have a reaction to the acrylic 

Revolting1

Mixing Acrylic and nitro paint may well be a recipe for disaster-adverse paint reactions, curly finish or not drying properly.

     Check with the Nitro supplier.

RaymondLin

GoldenEraGuitars said:

I believe that the cellulose clear coat will have a reaction to the acrylic 

Oh, what would you recommend?

GoldenEraGuitars

Cellulose colour and a cellulose clear. To achieve that colour you’ll need daphne blue or sonic blue, amber tint and gloss or satin clear coat. Check out @SteveRobinson for aerosols. 

I can already tell you’ll do a better job than Nash did. 

RaymondLin

GoldenEraGuitars said:

Cellulose colour and a cellulose clear. To achieve that colour you’ll need daphne blue or sonic blue, amber tint and gloss or satin clear coat. Check out @SteveRobinson for aerosols. 

I can already tell you’ll do a better job than Nash did. 

Oh, I forgot, I think i need a clear coat.  I guess also cellulose base as well.

Need to mask off the neck joint, somehow create a contraption so it is hanging in the air for me to spray it 360...

SteveRobinson

The Nash guitar has a white primer undercoat, you might want to reproduce that?

I have everything you need, check out my website for painting demos. If you need any advice please ask.