Full fat Les Paul build

davros

After success with my last build, a LP Jr DC, I'm moving on to a full fat LP.

Not sure yet on finish, but the layout will be like the mockups below - wraparound bridge, bridge humbucker, neck P90, 3 way switch, master volume, master tone.

Bound body, unbound neck, full carved top. It will also be fully chambered, using the same pattern as the Gibson chambered reissues.

Debating on knob position - the blue example shows the traditional 'Junior' knob position, but this isn't ideal for access and I think looks a little odd. I think I'm going to position them more like the other examples.

Got mahogany blanks for the neck and body, and pre-slotted indian rosewood fretboard from Guitars and Woods, they look really nice quality. Need to source a top and waiting for David Dyke to send me some pics of their stock. If you have any other recommendations for thick maple caps, let me know!

Also made some progress on making templates for the body, chambers and a full set of top carve templates.

Wish me luck!

Jez6345789

Looking good nice template work

Some of the Spanish suppliers have BF deals on and ship free whilst we are still in the EU LOL. 

https://maderasbarber.com/tonewood/en/1204-carved-tops

https://www.madinter.com/en/woodstock-the-best-unique-woods-for-guitar/tops-soundboards-etm/comprarpor/electric_guitar.html

I also picked up a couple of nice pieces from Stewmac pricey but the wood and service was good and used there club shipping and combined a few tools with a friend. 

https://www.stewmac.com/tonewoods/shop-tonewood-by-the-piece/?facet=|woodfigure:flame|woodpart:sndbrdtops

longjaw

Agree the Jnr knobs position doesn't look quite right - much better in the other examples.

Solid colour or a burst?

WezV

Looking good so far.

if you haven't done it before you will be surprised how easy the templates make the carving process

davros

Thanks all - I've not done a proper carve top before, only bevelled, so looking forward to giving this a whirl.

The one thing I'm not sure about is the body binding in the cutaway - @WezV in one of your build threads you mentioned using a different tool to cut the binding channel for this area - care to share what that is? I'm planning to build an overhead jig to route the rest of the way around.

Not sure on solid vs burst yet - may depend on the wood I get for the top...and my ability to do a convincing burst with spray cans or rubbed stains!

I'll check out the EU suppliers for tops before brexit hits! I've been impressed with the mahogany and rosewood from G&W, but they don't appear to do maple tops.

Not keen on ordering from Stewmac - I got a set of nut files on there, but the price of VAT and the post office processing fee makes buying from the US a lot less attractive.

JohnS37

I like your photoshop visuals - it’s ideal for working out the best look.

davros

I used the Frank Montag generator online, the results are better looking than the kisekae one. No photoshop needed!!

WezV

davros said:

The one thing I'm not sure about is the body binding in the cutaway - @WezV in one of your build threads you mentioned using a different tool to cut the binding channel for this area - care to share what that is? I'm planning to build an overhead jig to route the rest of the way around.

If you using an overhead router you should be fine. to do the cutaway with it after the carve.

I route the binding ledge most of the way round  using a normal router at the same stage I do the ledges.  Then i do the cutaway bit with a stew-mac dremel router attachment after the carve is done.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-binding/binding-router-guide.html

i'm not a big fan of this tool, but it works for small areas

davros

Help, please, disaster while routing, advice needed.

Had a bit of tearout on the first pass, ok, no biggie, that will sand out. Started climb routing to prevent it and that worked.


Flipped it over, did the same and disaster struck

It's too deep to lose in the roundover and i wanted a natural finish on the back. Any ideas on how to fix it or should I order another blank?

Was thinking of routing out a section and patching in with some similar grain, feasible?

greggreg66

Arse! 

Bit extreme ordering a new blank no? If you have the offcut from the same area it's definitely worth splicing in a patch. For some reason I feel like I'd attempt to chisel it on an angle, like a scarf joint, rather than a routed patch as it might soften the junction of the repair.

SteveRobinson

Make it double-bound like a custom. Plane off 5mm and add a separate back?

No forget that it's deeper than 5mm

davros

Cheers, I'll sleep on it. I'm concerned I'll end up with more tearout if I try to double bind this mahogany and I was planning to contour the heel Feline style. It's about 10mm deep down the side, so planing that much off I might as well start again!!

I think I may rout out a chunk and match in an offcut. I was thinking about doing it like a chamfer, but actually i think that it will get lost in the roundover from the back. just the side will show a patch.

Oh well, it's only for me and a learning process!!

WezV

What finish were you planning?   I would go darker on the back rather than scrap it.

If you fill it, it should be less noticeable by the time its all sanded and rounded over.   Maybe enough that it still rules out properly natural, but might work with a darker tobacco tint 

davros

I was planning clear nitro on the back. I think I'll attempt a fix and wet it to see how obvious it is. Could do a tint or a slight burst on the back and sides, or I might just live with it. Not planning to sell it, but might annoy me forever more!

WezV

It probably will annoy you. these things do.  I tend to find I remember the flaws a lot longer than I remember the successes.

It's best to push on.  You don't want to start again only to mess up the next step on new wood.   There is no issue here that will make this build a bad guitar.



Learning to fix the mistakes adequately  is an important part of the process.... it certainly helps when you need to do actual repairs too


I do abandon some builds when mistakes happen, but rarely at such an early stage

davros

Thanks for the advice, it's only a hobby and he building and solving problems is all part of the fun. Every boob tells a story! I'll press on!

greggreg66

Totally definitely carry on. 

Maybe try a repair attempt in the scrap first to suss out routing a patch in vs chamfer etc maybe? Might be safer to try that in an offcut before going straight into the repair?

You got this*

*bit of an Americanism, but you know what I mean

Jez6345789

Tear out is a bitch no matter how careful, it catches you off guard well it does me.
If you have an offcut from cutting the body you will probably get a reasonable grain match for a patch but on a clear finish hard not to see. As said a shade or burst edge. I have used thin packing tape as a wall then packed with mahogany dust and then superglue. Again not an invisible repair but it works under a finish and sands out well enough.

Stay positive

PeteC

This exact same thing happened to me on my first junior when I tried to take too deep a cut with a 50mm fluted template bit.   The body flew across the shed after a sizeable tear out - stupid me.  

After consulting here I was able to patch with off cut and some mahogany powder and glue ( not superglue) 
the repair is almost invisible and with finishing I don’t think it will be noticeable to anyone else 

the repair was a good lesson in how to recover from a problem  ( there have been quite a few so far ! ) 

I would say press on .......once you start playing it and it gets some wear a few small flaws will just add to its character.   

I’m sure it will turn out excellent having followed your last build.  

WezV

My preference is epoxy with dust in this situation.... which just goes to show you have a few options

PeteC

Yep - superglue and dust mix tends to darken the area too much. I filled the deeper parts of the tear with superglue and dust first then overlaid more dust mixed with white wood glue , but I expect Wez’s epoxy mix would be better.