Gretsch - recommendations, ideas, thoughts, suggestions etc

dazzajl

tomajoha said:

Forgive me if this has already has already been covered, but do invest in a good pro setup on a Gretsch. The vintage spec guitars often get a bad rep for being a bit unstable but I have found a well set up one is no worse than any other bigsby equipped guitar. Although the Japanese pro line is VERY well made, in my experience they still need a final look over as the factory setting is usually a bit safe. The Chet I owned was transformed after its aluminium nut was properly cut, I hate to think that you might be put off Gretschi by something that is easily remedied.  

It's unfortunate that I can only give this one wiz. For all the great build quality out of Terada, the finishing and set up is rarely good enough. I've never understood this but I have come to accept it.

Fuengi

TheMarlin said:

Flacons/Phoenix and Country Gents are the biggest body Gretsches. Then the 6120 is the next size down, and the iconic Gretsch shape/style. The Anniversary is the same size as a 6120, but the body is thinner, making it a more comfortable play. Still hollow, and sounds amazing. 

Falcons are lovely, but not for everyone, as some people don’t find the bulk comfortable to play, and as Malcolm Young has shown, can dwarf shorter players.  

Duo Jets are LP size Gretsches, usually with a chambered mahogany body with a carved maple cap.  Lovely guitars, particularly the Vintage Select models. 

There is also the Electromatic (mid price range), and Streamliners, which is the budget range.  I do like the G2420T, nicely made, and a new set of pickups gets it close to the G5420T (but for less money). 

If you can, always try to buy a used Pro Line model over an Electromatic. 

 

What about the Tennessee Rose and Nashville? 

TheMarlin

Tennessee Rose is a posh Annie. Pretty colour, same spec. 

. 

Nashville is a type of 6120. 

Seziertisch

TheMarlin said:

Tennessee Rose is a posh Annie. Pretty colour, same spec. 

. 

Nashville is a type of 6120. 

Beware that there are two types of Tennessee Rose. One with painted f holes, Electrotone body and 24.5” scale, the other is closer to the Annie.

Moe_Zambeek

I’ve had a Penguin LTV and a Dave Lee White Falcon. Both were decent but not exceptional guitars, relatively clunky to play and the necks were slimmer than I preferred. The Falcon was trestle bracing I think, and was lively but controllable, with bridge pinned and TVJ Powertrons in P90 cases. Took a bit of work by ICBM to get them playing in tune for any length of time!

They looked beautiful but both were probably only average guitars. I only mildly regret selling the Falcon and only then because of how it looked, it wasn’t enormous fun to play.

Dontgiveupyourdayjob

@merlin this has just popped up on here, could be worth a punt to scratch your big body Gretsch itch?

FS : Gretsch G6122-1959 (‘04) Chet Atkins Country Gent £1700 Ono - Guitars £ Discussions on theFretBoard 

TwoToneGreen

I never realised that the 6120 was slightly deeper than the Annie.

I own a 2004 Annie, which I bought for €850 as the world fell apart in 2008. It's the best guitar purchase I have ever made from a value and fun point of view. I haven't been playing it much recently, as the electronics are slowly fading away and it needs some attention. All the same, it is a great model to try if looking for the full Gretsch experience.

For some reason, I have never been able to convince myself to buy another Gretsch hollowbody. As you change models, the basic formula remains largely the same and the specs change only fairly subtly unless the pickups are different. I suppose there is a big difference between a Country Club with Dynasonics and an Annie, for example, but it wouldn't be worth owning a 6120 with Filtertrons and an Annie with Filtertrons at the same time in my view.

merlin

I've narrowed it down to two. 

Anniversary G6118T-LIV or SC White Falcon. 

Each have some pros and cons. Financial issues aside, I really want to have a full Gretsch experience and despite the non-pinned bridge and spike Bigsby, a big part of me really wants the full. open-hollowness, longer scale length, bling and size of the Falcon. 

On the other hand, the narrower and slightly smaller body of the G6118T seems very attractive although I'm not happy about losing tone. Does a pinned bridge have any impact on tone? I didn't think so. I do wonder whether a pinned bridge would make that much difference to me as a player because I'm pretty light with my right hand and have played floating bridge guitars before without issues. Also I wonder how important in real terms a through Bigsby really is. 

I've toured Bigsby equipped instruments and never broken strings mid gig... I use a capo to string and have no issues with pins on the bar....do through bar strings change tone/sustain? Didn't think so. 


So which, players anni G6118T or full fat massive beast White Falcon? Any further thoughts? 


 

sw67

I have wanted a Gretsch for years and after selling my acoustic have a G6118T on back order. The pedal show review sealed it for me. I wanted a fixed bridge , Locking tuners and a guitar i can use for most things. 

Chuffola

I’ve never had a Gretsch but it’s probably next on the list. Electromatic though for me. Would I have to factor in a set up - always presumed without the nut being sorted it’s likely to be problematic with tuning?

Fuengi

Definitely get the Anniversary, then I can have it off you when I've got enough cash and you've had enough of it and want to try the Falcon. 

steer

Chuffola said:

I’ve never had a Gretsch but it’s probably next on the list. Electromatic though for me. Would I have to factor in a set up - always presumed without the nut being sorted it’s likely to be problematic with tuning?

The nut on my 5420 just needed a bit of lubrication, and a small burr removed. Took me less than 5 minutes. Now it is solid.

stickyfiddle

IMO a Gretsch without a Bigsby is missing the point a little bit. Although the Cadillac tailpieces do look great. 

The main advantage for pinned bridges IMO is simply practical. Not only can it not move while playing but also during string changes. You always know your intonation is going to be where you left it.

downbytheriver

I’ve been through a whole bunch of Gretsches (including a lot of Prolines) and have ended up with two Electromatics for gigging - a 5420T and a 5410 Ratrod. Less risk on the small gigs I do and more than adequate for me. A small amount of fettling (nut and Compton bridge) and I’m very happy. 

The only thing I want to do is get my (white) ratrod pinstriped! 

Cirrus

So my understanding of the difference between pinned and floating is that if you have a pinned bridge, the pressure of the string tension pushing down is less evenly distributed - it kind of goes through the pins. Whereas with a floating bridge, it's distributed more evenly over a wider area of the top.

As to what sonic difference that makes, I honestly don't know. I asked the tech that set up my 5422 if it was worth unpinning the bridge, he didn't think it made a difference practically.

Keefy

I’m going to weigh in here as a Gretsch owner for 10 years but with limited experience of other models. My observations:

1. I strongly support waiting until you can go out and try a few. I found I didn’t care for the ones I wanted to like (6120 models) but it was blatantly obvious, once I’d picked up the one that I eventually bought, that I’d found the right one for me.

2. I tried a painted-f-hole Tennessee Rose and it was too boomy through an amp to be any use to me.

3. But I’ve heard other people get some lovely fat jazz sounds from big-body Gretsches.

4. My Duo Jet has the narrow ‘Coke bottle’ headstock. I’ve been able to set it up to play reliably in tune.

5. Whenever Dan or Mick from TPS try to play Dan’s Anniversary (broad ‘paddle’ headstock) they have trouble getting it to stay in tune.

/2p (or maybe /5p!)

TheMarlin

The problem with the broad paddle headstock is (again) the nut. 

On the smaller headstock models (jet and Setzer Hot Rods), the strings are mostly straight-ish lines to the nut.  On the broad headstock models, the strings enter the nut at various angles, some acute. 

Its that angle of entry that is the issue, you have to pay as much attention to the back of nut (headstock side) as the neck side.  You need to open up the nut where the string enters and remove any sharp ends which might cause the string to bind. Do that, keep it nice and lubed, and all will be fine

Keefy

TheMarlin said:

The problem with the broad paddle headstock is (again) the nut. 

On the smaller headstock models (jet and Setzer Hot Rods), the strings are mostly straight-ish lines to the nut.  On the broad headstock models, the strings enter the nut at various angles, some acute. 

Its that angle of entry that is the issue, you have to pay as much attention to the back of nut (headstock side) as the neck side.  You need to open up the nut where the string enters and remove any sharp ends which might cause the string to bind. Do that, keep it nice and lubed, and all will be fine

Yep, nail hit squarely on head(stock).

Personally I prefer the look of the narrow headstock, but hey, there's a Gretsch out there for everyone!

Seziertisch

Keefy said:

2. I tried a painted-f-hole Tennessee Rose and it was too boomy through an amp to be any use to me.

Yes, stock the painted F-hole Tennessee Roses are very boomy. 

I have one and cured the problem by changing to a floating tailpiece and a tuneomatic bridge. The Bigsby seemed to deaden the top completely (possibly how it interacted with the waffle bracing) and the rocking bar bridge managed to have both a flubby low end and a pingy top. 

gubble

Gretsch are highly addictive........

I started off buying a streamliner last year. Within a fortnight I'd then bought an electromatic.

Lockdown is probably the only reason i don't own half a dozen by now