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Comments
(formerly customkits)
(formerly customkits)
(formerly customkits)
Even if I end up testing the joint to destruction and the wood fails before the glue then that's still a positive as we'll know for certain haha! And if it fails, then I do have a small office in the workshop I can heat so I'll then PVA it together in there. I just don't fancy taking everything home to glue up there.
In the clamps. I initially put the neck on a straight piece of timber for alignment then clamped it both sides:
In the vice while I was putting pressure on the joint:
I had no time to trim the body yet (hopefully later if my wife allows!), but I love this hilarious caveman-V look haha!!
The white on the body blank is from the bad PVA glue up from before. The body was rejointed with UF Resin.
Copy routing the body on the spindle moulder (after bandsawing it):
After a quick sand:
I also ran the neck blank over the planer and through the thicknesser to get it all nice and square:
Nice tight joint on the scarfed headstock. If you look closely you can see the grain direction change etc:
This is as far I got today. Will set the truss rod in next and then probably get the mortice and tenon done after that. If that goes okay then I'll buy in some rosewood and start on the fretboard. My only issue is now time, or lack of it. So will likely be slow
on progress. Hopefully I will be able to steal some time here and there.
You might notice the shoulders are really sharp. I'm half tempted to try and do some binding like the Dan Erlewine walnut V he made for Albert King, though I don't want to push my luck!!
Ive had a busy day too - no photo's, but making up some J-Bass pickup routing templates and prepping for an ash/afromosia bass build. Of course, i forgot that it's wood that has been sitting in garage for some time, so needs a couple months acclimatisation in house before main work done. So dug out some mahogany and amazaque for a 3xP90 build (dark edge burst on the mahogany with an oil finish).
Building guitars is addictive!
Adam
The plan was to change router cutter on the last pass and get a tighter corner rad, but after this mishap I decided to quit while I was simultaneously both behind and ahead
(formerly miserneil)
Me too.
Setting it in was really straight forward as the spindle moulder has a nice long fence with digi up/down. I used an adjustable grooving blade so dialling it in was easy. I put some 4mm packers on one so the slot was at angle. Nice.
The fit was really snug
The bad part was that I didn't know how to ream out the groove for where the truss rod nut sits. Rather than wait and ask the forum (I'm very impatient) I botched it. I considered that as I need to put a headstock veneer on still, it wouldn't be too bad if it was a bit messy under the hood.
I used a spade bit, which worked like a charm at first, but it went a little off course and also span out at one point, hence the very shit appearance. But I still think that when the veneer goes on, no one will know!!
To explain why I have a bolt under the nut... I panicked that the truss rod nut was too deep to allow access for a socket tool, so I lifted it a touch by putting the bolt under. This is very much a 'worts and all' post (and a bit embarrassing of my bodge), but I welcome suggestions for how you guys approach this.
*not really
I've got a Stewmac tool specifically for the truss rod access, as I'm doing quite a few it's invaluable. It's essentially a spot facer bit and a pilot/guide that sits in the channel:
Just one question, Is the bolt holding the rod up out of the bottom of the channel?
(formerly miserneil)
I'd imagine it's holding it off the bottom of the channel a touch yes.
I also have another bit anxiety setting in which is that my plans called for the washer to go against where the nut goes, but I've suddenly come to realise that this highly likely isn't right and should sit further up the headstock as you have done.