First Build - DC Junior

greggreg66

PeteC said:

PS..... @greggreg66 ;
It looks to me as though the base of the tailpiece on yours is around 6-7mm off the body on the low E side - is that about right do you reckon ? Maybe even 8mm ?   

Hi Pete, I forgot to bring a better measuring implement home, so only have the clunky end of the tape measure, but hopefully helpful!?

Action is roughly 1.5mm at the 12th on the low E, again this is poorly measured by eye with my tape measure so rather unreliable I'm afraid. I'll try and remember to bring my action gauge thingy home tonight.





 

PeteC

Thanks @greggreg66 - that's enough detail to be able to judge the likely gap on mine. Much appreciated ! 

Danielsguitars

If you're using a dog ear p90 I aim for about 1mm above the cover, I think it was an unfretted board, wish my memory was better, I always physically measure and not rely on a given angle

This gives posts that have maybe 3mm sticking out the body with a low action,I don't like them too high personally

TTony

There’s a feature in this months Guitar magazine, comparing 58 & 59 LP Jrs ...

TTony

PeteC

will check that out - thanks 

PeteC

No major progress this week on the DC due to having to have a new boiler fitted on my day off ( ouch ! ) 

Did manage to get an hour to try out the router planing jig and prepare some Idigbo for a 2 piece body blank - to go with a Utile neck I am part way through making. 

Machines well - and now just have to hone my planing chops to get a nicely invisible glue line  - not quite there in this pic. 
I like the wood grain,  though where the grain changes direction at the surface it can rough up a bit easily so not sure if final sanding etc is going to be a bit of a pain wit this stuff.  I guess if its grain filled well it should all be OK. 

Note the router slip on the bottom piece - luckily well away from the body outline !!!

I wonder how close its properties to Limba/Korina really are ? 

PeteC

much better joint after sharpening and tuning up the No.7 Bailey plane... .....its now clamped and gluing up overnight ready to become another (but very different) DC junior body !  Onwards !! 

TTony

PeteC said:

ready to become another (but very different) DC junior body !

You’ve got the bug ....

PeteC

Waiting for some hardware to turn up so the first build has slowed up, so in the meantime I have started getting the Idigbo body ready and done a couple of diy single action truss rods    I like the Idigbo and it’s quite easy to work, but it stains really easily with tool use  (in a bad way ) and is a bugger to keep looking clean. 
Anyway it’s progressing fine.  

What I do really like about it though is that it’s almost got a ring to it when tapped - like a percussionists wood block - so I’m hoping for some really good resonance from this build.   The neck is good in that respect on this one too.  

I’ve made the rods with 5mm mild steel and cut an M5 thread on each one - which means I will need to use metric brass nuts rather than standard Gibson ones.  

Just need to source some Suitable brass truss rod nuts next and make some half moon washers

this second build has been much quicker So far as I haven’t had to double check everything I am doing this time.   

WezV

Careful with that last sentence there....

PeteC

Fair comment @WezV  !  I should have said I don’t have to overthink each stage - but will still be double checking, and triple checking  everything ! 

WezV

I say it as I think I really got into my stride on my third build.. . Untill I had my first major screwups:D

Danielsguitars

I've been meaning to try bending my truss rods but haven't got round to it yet, I like it as it's simple, nice work too

PeteC

Hi Folks, 

had a bit of an enforced break due to skiing holiday and then sorting out social services care for elderly relatives this past couple of weeks - its certainly slowed down progress on the DC builds.   

Anyhow, apart from progressing a bit with the Idigbo DC build I have finally got round to doing the bridge placement on No.1.   

I have used the bridge placement guidance from the 55 page DC build doc I found over at the myLesPaul forum.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gxzbb6524doqtn0/Double Cut LP Jr.pdf
   
I've carefully checked everything and wanted to check something with you experienced guys before I drill for the bridge posts....

My scale length is 24.75" (I used a laser template cut to this for the fret slotting) 

My exact measurement from the face of the nut to the exact centre of the 12th fret is 12" and 6/16ths, which seems spot on for a 24.75" scale length. 

But...when I follow the bridge placement guidance and check that the intonation at 12th and harmonic is right, I find that the string break point at the middle ( i.e. top of the bridge and at its centre between D & G string spaces ) of the bridge is about 632mm long - which is 24.88" not 24.75"    That about 3.3mm longer. 

Is this normal ?   Mt bridge looks visually further back than other DCs I have seen - but the intonation on both E strings seems spot on when measured with my digital tuner. 

cheers
Pete

TTony

Personally, I'd be guided by what your tuner is telling you.

If that pic is with the bridge placed where the tuner says it should be, then it looks like you've still got plenty of forwards/backwards adjustment in the screws, which would seem sensible too.

Surely, if its a vintage correct version, then tuning shouldn't be too accurate anyway??

PeteC

Ha !  true enough @TTony ! TTony said:

Surely, if its a vintage correct version, then tuning shouldn't be too accurate anyway??

Well I guess if I screw this up on No.1 there's always No.2 waiting in the wings .....

andy_k

Be a bit careful with the way the strings will eventually wrap around the bridge, it can do funny things to the angles. 

SteveRobinson

The actual scale length will be longer than twice the nut to 12th fret measurement because of string compensation.

Don't forget to nudge the bridge over to the bass side a tad as the strings centre on the holes in the back of the bridge where they emerge.

PeteC

Thanks all - yes the notes in the pdf are quite specific about the bass side offset and the fact that the strings will tend to exit towards the treble side of the rear holes in the wraparound.   I’ve remeasured and redone the intonation again and it’s in the same spot so I think I am good to go.  

Don’t have a half inch brad point bit - just jobber bits - so I am going to be very careful when drilling the bushings holes 

cheers 
Pete