First Build - DC Junior

TTony

PeteC said:

I found that the fret slots at the edges of the fretboard were disappearing !! -- I clearly hadn't cut deep enough when first slotting the board - knowing that I would need to final cut them anyway at some point before fretting the neck. 

So - what's a good accurate way to final cut the slots when I haven't really cut deep enough to start with ?  - just use the slots and take great care - or is there a better way ( jig etc ) ? 

Looking at that pic ^^, if that's before the fretboard was radiused, then the slots do look a little shallow.  I'm guessing they're about 2mm deep (if the board is 6mm thick).

Can't you use the same fret slot cutting jig that you used before to cut the slots a little deeper?

TTony

PeteC said:

2nd snag : for this build I chickened out a bit and bought a double action russ rod  - but its rattling a bit in the slot when I tap the neck , which I want to cure before gluing the board - should I use a bit of silicone or not ?

I've never built using a double action rod, so this isn't a comment from experience ...

Is it rattling side to side, or top to bottom?  

If the former (ie the slot is too wide) then I guess you need to pack it with something, although I imagine it would have to be something very thin.

If the latter, won't the rattling stop once the truss rod is tensioned and acting against the top or bottom of its slot?  You could try clamping something on top of the neck just to test that out (ie before gluing the fretboard on).

... but, as I said above, those are not comments from experience!

PeteC said:

 I read so many conflicting views - especially on the "mylespaul" and TDPRI forums. 

That's the problem with the internet ... you'll always find different opinions!!

greggreg66

PeteC said:

Hi Folks - I need a bit of help / advice on the DC build !!!

2nd snag : for this build I chickened out a bit and bought a double action russ rod  - but its rattling a bit in the slot when I tap the neck , which I want to cure before gluing the board - should I use a bit of silicone or not ? I read so many conflicting views - especially on the "mylespaul" and TDPRI forums. 

As I'm new to this I can't offer much advice, but @IvisonGuitars had a good trick for a loose truss rod which was to slide a guitar string down the channel, but I'm not sure if this will work for a double action rod??

Danielsguitars

I use a sliding bevel as a guide on fret slots if you're just deepening them a bit, I use a hosco fret saw, they're small and very controllable, I glue a small perspex square block on the side of the blade just over fret depth, works really well, this is one reason I now taper radius and slot a board last,  I was fed up going back over slot depths

I think people use a bit of silicon to stop truss rod rattle

PeteC

Thx.  So the sliding bevel acts like an angled fence against the tapered edge of the board instead of a 90degree engineers square , you mean?  I think I see what you mean.  

I’ll post a pic tomorrow to check.  

IvisonGuitars

Morning, can’t help with a double action rod rattle I’m afraid as I’ve not used I’m one yet (and the string trick is only for single action rods that saves having to do major surgery and remove the fretboard/rod).

i think @Danielsguitars is right, I’ve heard silicon is used and his sliding bevel trick is just the job too

TTony

Would you need to make the fret slot a consistent depth all the way across the board?

OK, at the edges of the board, you don't want big gaps between the bottom of the slot and the bottom of the fret, for aesthetic reasons if nothing else, and I guess it's a good principle to cut away only wood that needs to be cut away (ie in the fret slots themselves), but is there any constructional reason why the slots should be a consistent depth - ie depth of the fret tang - across the board?

PeteC

Thanks for the advice guys - much appreciated.   

PeteC

Did you mean like this - just a quick mock up. 

https://i.imgur.com/URymRfK.jpg 

Danielsguitars

PeteC said:

Did you mean like this - just a quick mock up. 

https://i.imgur.com/URymRfK.jpg 

I tend to set the bevel up with the point side going away from me in my left hand, obviously in line with the fret slot, I also turn it round to check it's the same both sides of the slot, you can get your fret saw in the slot and adjust the bevel up to it if it's a nice fit in the slot, hope that helps

PeteC

It does !   Thanks v much danielsguitars.   

PeteC

So.....some progress and some frustration today - it’s a learning curve indeed!  

Aimed to get the dot inlays done and the neck pocket cut todaŷ using the myka jig to put an angle on the pocket (3.3 degrees).  

After rejecting a crap 6mm Brad bit and popping out to screwfix to buy a couple of half decent ones I managed to get cracking with the MOP dots.  

Fitted very nicely - which I was pretty pleased with for my first attempt , and sanded down with 120 and 320 grit.   Simple but looks good!   

Then after a LOT of aligning the neck and body I set about using my super duper neck jig to route the pocket.   Only to find that the way I have made it none my router bits are long enough to to route the pocket deep enough!    Bugger!  So now I have decided to route a flat pocket tomorrow (day off) and put the angle on the neck instead , though I am a bit nervous about getting that right. 

That’s it for now.    Now Need to read up on how best to put the angle on the neck - or buy some longer template router bits !  

Gluing the fretboard onto the neck tomorrow too. Must seem like snails pace to the experienced builders here, but I want it to try do it well and don’t want to rush and cock something up!! 

Cheers Pete 

TTony

PeteC said:

Congrats - that looks like very neat work, and definitely worth the quick trip to Screwfix.

IvisonGuitars

PeteC said:

Then after a LOT of aligning the neck and body I set about using my super duper neck jig to route the pocket.   Only to find that the way I have made it none my router bits are long enough to to route the pocket deep enough!    Bugger!  So now I have decided to route a flat pocket tomorrow (day off) and put the angle on the neck instead , though I am a bit nervous about getting that right. 

Very impressive neat work so far Pete!

Regarding the neck pocket/angle: a vintage Junior has a flat neck pocket and the angle in on the neck tenon so you're doing it right  

PeteC

Many thanks Neil.   Did Gibson square off the butt of the neck or did they leave a gap and just fill with glue ?  I wondered whether I should angle the butt so that it fits the square pocket better ?    From the few gut shots I have seen they seem to vary and some look really scrappy !   My main quandary is the best way to angle the heel properly and accurately.  I did think about setting up the router to plane it with the neck shimmed up at the correct angle to get a 3 degree facet on the base of the heel.  I wonder how Gibson did it 
cheers
Pete 

Danielsguitars

I wonder if Gibson used an overhead router and put a shim under the nut, that's the way I do it anyway, it allows me to continually check as I go, I don't use angles but physically measure with a straight edge so it just goes over the dog ear with about a 1mm gap

greggreg66

I'm sure you've seen a million pics, but this is my 59 DC junior tenon (if that's any help!). 

Danielsguitars

That's just the overhead getting the tenon flat after it's glued in imo

Andyjr1515

It's looking good, @PeteC ;

It's a steep learning curve - but at the end of it, you'll have picked up the majority of basics needed for any future project.

Oh...except for acoustics where there is another learning curve as big as this one all over again!

PeteC

Thanks Andy ,  Steep indeed.......had a whole day to work at it today but had one of these days where nothing went to plan. 
I did manage to deepen the fret slots successfully using advice from Danielsguitars and TTony recently. 

The pic I haven’t posted is where I set up the palm router for the P90 rout and switched the bloody thing on at the plug without checking if it was off - leading to a few rather nasty little gouges on the top next to where the P90 cover will be.   Surgery was required with sawdust and a few drops of titebond.  Once the guitar is strung and has its pick guard it will hardly be visible but boy was I pissed off with myself.    Then I went to glue the board onto the neck until I realised I hadn’t done the side dots.....  so onto t’interweb to order some plastic rod.....

then back in the shed to file some rough spots off the weld on the truss rod and I knocked my dewalt table saw off it’s (temporary) stand and bent one of the rack and pinion runners.  V bad indeed, and it’s taken me all afternoon to get it near true again so that I can use the saw!!!  

Dammit !  

Does anyone else have days like these - or is it just me. 

Anyway some slight progress, At lest the fret slots are done and the p90 rout is ready. 

Hopefully a more productive day next time! 

Cheers
Pete