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Their disadvantages are many though, all of which have been said above - weight, size, reliability, maintenance costs etc.
However, the biggest downside for me is how amp tone and volume are connected i.e. louder sounds better. We’ve all been to gigs where the guitarist is playing something inappropriately big (like a 100w head and a 4x12 in a smallish pub) He has two choices, either keep the volume down to an appropriate level and sound aenemic or push the volume to a point where the amp is working and sounding like it should and swamp the entire band and the PA system. Neither option is desirable, in a situation like that a solid state or modelling amp will probably sound better. I know there are good attenuators out there nowadays but that is just more faff in most situations, like here is another heavy item to bring along to the gig
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Some companies are seriously taking the piss with their pricing models. If you're into Fender flavoured things you can pretty much expect to pay through the nose for designs that are over fifty years old and were often created initially as practice amps. Boutique champs etc are terrifyingly dear.
Valve amps are pretty cheap these days too if your not a gear snob. I haven't spent more than £340 on any valve amp I own with most of them around the £200 mark 2nd hand. I've never really had any problems with reliability across thousands of gigs other than a JMP-1 transformer going, a pre amp valve in a HT5 and my Marshall EL34 100 \ 100 sucked in some metallic confetti which caused one side to go. That's all that's happened since 2001 when I stopped giging a Tech 21 Trademark 60 and went valve again. Sure valves can go like light bulbs but this is an end user replaceable part. At a gig if necessary. Try changing any single part of a modern class D modelling amp. be it a cap or the switching transistor or the pulse width mod chip at a gig .... ain't gonna happen;)
The amps in my workshop at the mo are Line 6 Spider combo, keeps cutting out, not looked at it yet. Mark Bass head with blown up class D power stage and an Alto class D PA speaker. None of these are going to be an easy fix that's for sure.
There is no reason they can't still work, my Dad still has a Compaq LTE he used to use for work, that's 30ish years old now. Not that it's useful for anything, but that's mostly because it won't connect to the Internet.
The problem with modellers is custom chips - if they fail and the manufacturer doesn’t have spares it’s game over - but they are not inherently destined to fail. Some will, but most will work more or less indefinitely.
For absolute long-term reliability you probably want an old-school analogue solid-state amp with all discrete components or very basic ICs.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
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And even that wasn't ideal for 'my' sound
And I think the same holds true for all elements in a band arrangement. A mate of mine went SXSW a few years ago as sound man for an up and coming band. They played lots of gigs in lots of different venues over the space of a couple of days, and my friend got to see a lot of the same bands playing gigs in a variety of venues, some bigger, some smaller. He said the better bands adjusted to the venue size, particularly the drummers in those bands played more or less heavy depending on the location, whereas the less able drummers tended to have a default setting regardless of where they were playing. This wasn’t a drastic thing now, just that the better drummers had a natural appreciation of how to make their kit sound best in the space they were in. As a result the bands with these drummers always sounded better, regardless of who was mixing them or where they were playing.
Just because an amp is capable of 100W doesn't mean you have to use it all - I actually play at about 15W usually, I know that from having used amps of that sort of power. I always found the big amp running fairly quietly filled the space better at a *lower* volume than the smaller amp cranked up, too.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Are there any brands that "tend" to have good master volumes (and any that don't) or is it very amp specific?
I’ve yet to actually try out a hybrid amp for myself but suspect that might be the way to achieve light weight coupled with valve tones. Also, what about these NuTube thingies?
My experience has been they're reasonably good at doing their job now.
It can be down to the individual amp sometimes though - I’ve played a few Marshall 2203s with good masters and plenty with bad ones...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Feedback
SS and digital amps become obsolete within a few years as the tech moves forward. What cost you £1000 for a modeler, will be worth £100 in 10 years, so maybe not that much cheaper after all. They are great for low volume and adjustability.
I have a HX Stomp and valve amps. I always enjoy playing my amps more.