WezV - building an electric with the laser cutter.

WezV

Remade the headplate shorter, and a much better engraving this time.  Though I should include a grain matched truss rod cover too.
 

Strangefan

Do you have the air pump attachment? That would prevent any of the scorching you're getting near the logo, 

WezV

Yeah, air assist was running.   Although I keep seeing conflicting info on whether it should be used for engraving, or just cutting.

I'm quite happy with the new one, should clean up fine.

Strangefan

The new one does look great,  

DartmoorHedgehog

That looks excellent.  What's the difference in settings between that and the old, slightly fuzzy, one? Presumably to do with laser power and head speed.

WezV

the first one was done at too low power/high speed.  I tried to do another pass but lost alignment slightly so it lost definition.  I think i also used the offset fill setting for speed.

The newer one was done on the slower fill setting,  at a slower speed.

there are 3 main modes on the laser

Line - it draws the outline of the shape
Fill - it fills it by moving side to side like a printer head.
Offset fill - Draws the outline, then moves inwards drawing the same shape

fill vs offset fill is not that different on a solid shape

but for hollow shapes  it makes a big difference

 red shows the laser head movement, lots of wasted moves with fill




Offset fill is a lot quicker, but fill is more consistent.

Offset fill can also do odd things with unusual shapes

DartmoorHedgehog

@WezV interesting, thanks

WezV

i had a slight mishap with the top.

After doing the headplate I decided to try and re-do the body engraving.  I got it all aligned nicely by pre-engraving the shape onto a backing board and running the program again.  It was running well, so I stepped away to water some plants for a minute.  Big mistake

I missed a slight curvature of the top, which meant that the laser guard pushed the whole thing out of alignment, and started engraving in totally the long spot.  It is set up with very little clearance so you get the best eye protection from the shield.

the lesson here is to hold thinner bits of wood more firmly before engraving.  I should have stuck it to the backing board with double side tape




I've left it alone for a couple of days trying to decide the best way to fix it.  The obvious answer is to cut a new top along with pickups and plates to match.

But i wasn;t quite ready to give up on this one.   The slight bowing that caused the issue  makes it difficult to plane or thickness out as is, so i've decided to glue it into the body first.  Hopefully I can route 1-1.5mm off the top of the whole thing, and re-engrave after.  

Sesh

Oh no, what a shame. This thread has been fascinating so far. I'm sure you will be able to sort it though. 

WezV

There are always issues to overcome when trying new things, so I'm not too phased by it.  I know at this point it's better to think about a solution for a few days before I attempt anything rash.

The alternative would be to walk well trodden paths, or even not bother building the bloody things at all.

sev112

Turn it over for a lefty 

WezV

nah, i hate making lefties as i can't play them

also, its currently in clamps

WezV

I took 1mm off the whole top, just need to re radius and sand out the whole thing before i move onto the neck pocket

WezV

Neck route jig

WezV

Top re-engraved.  Just one border this time.   The plan is to leave the outer edge and pickups natural, maybe put a nice colour in the middle.

I did actually use offset fill again here as it takes 20mins instead of 2 hours .... but I changed the spacing between the laser path for a bit more overlap, giving a much cleaner cut.

I also slimmed down the outer border.... which I think looks loads better, but now doesn't match the headplate.  I'm okay with that as the visual difference will be reduced when the middle bits are sprayed a different colour.

PeteC

Great job.  Love the pinstripe effect round the body.  I think a second version with the body roundover replaced by a bold chamfer where the maple top starts would look amazing too.  

WezV

That could work.   For this one I am sticking more with a vintage Zemaitis feel for most if it, just with some updated aesthetics

I'm really struggling to decide on a colour that would work well, so may have to do some photoshop mockups later

PeteC

Look forward to seeing those.    Ive been wanting to add a thin abalone pinstripe to the centreline on a couple of my builds but havent tried yet - a laser cutter would be perfect for cutting those - but rather overkill !!   What inlays will you be using? 

Jalapeno

Awesome work, you are the new Tony Zemaitis !

Jez6345789

Keeping with the Zemaitis feel what about steel grey wood on the insert possibly classic cherry on the outer?
There are some tutorials getting a nice grey blue steel look on flamed woods. 
Sure you will come up with a winner.