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Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
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The UN1 gearbox that's fitted to my car isn't the original Renault unit, it's a high-torque version of it, a UN1-026. The original Renault version would last about five minutes given the torque developed by the engine. There are various aftermarket upgrades available, but all come at a price, usually a high one.
Having just done the engine/gearbox out job, gearbox removal on its own would be relatively easy, with only the translator, about ten bellhousing bolts, two mount bolts and the driveshafts to pop out before it can be lifted. I reckon I could do it in a couple of hours. So I'm not minded to spend a cartload of dosh on it at the present time, when it appeared to be working well. That's not to say I won't do it at some point, though.
They do say that the V8 Esprits were limited to 350bhp because of the gearbox. I can see that, but there are quite a few owners running higher powered 8 and 4-cylinder cars with uprated gearboxes, with LSD's fitted to alleviate the wheelspin.
A few more piccys -
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/chillidoggy/Lotus/2015-01-13160924_zps3491e29c.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/chillidoggy/Lotus/2015-01-13133903_zps7c9c23f7.jpg
And finally, Rubik's fuel tanks have been extracted. What a fucking ballache that was, it was like trying to get something out of a hole that's too small unless you have it at precisely the correct angle. Anyway, the passenger side fuel tank is completely rotten at the bottom, although the driver's side has not long been replaced. I'm fitting a pair of alloy tanks, anyway.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/chillidoggy/Lotus/2015-01-17141921_zps9397f8a0.jpg
It's relatively easy to weld in a line, like a repair on a cracked casting, but trying to weld and fill down a hole is almost impossible. You'd end up with a cavity.
This morning's thought for the day is to clean it all up good and proper, then roughen up the inside of the adjacent hole and fill it with something like Belzona E-Metal, or Devcon. Wait until it hardens off, then retap the original 8mm hole, and see what it looks like. If it looks good, then I'll wind a steel stud in, and use an 8mm nut on the mount.
Or, depending on how it looks, I might re-drill and tap it out the next size up to 10mm, and use 10mm studs. Depends if there's enough space to use 10mm nuts on the mounting leg.
God knows why they used such pathetically small bolt sizes in such a critical area.