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If you're interested, I'll dig out some examples and some hints and tips.
that would be really good.
I have received the red aniline dye powder I have been waiting on for a few weeks. I planned to use this together with the tiniest hint of purple dye I already have to stain the Mahogany junior body after Rustins grain filling and sealing, but I am also wondering whether a VERY small amount of red dye would help tint the Danish Oil I have and whether I could then use this mix to oil slurry the Idigbo body. I have plenty of Idigbo offcuts to test it out on before committing. One question puzzling me is whether the oil slurry will be sufficient to grain fill the Idigbo as the grain on that body is quite open compared to the other (mahogany) body.
All tips and hints gratefully welcomed !
cheers
The attention to detail and thought process is amazing.
You know me - if someone says, 'you can only slurry and buff natural woods...'
Well, given a few do's and don'ts, you CAN slurry and buff stained product. And it is properly stained and will not come off on your fingers. But there is a 'but'. And the but is that I have only done this extensively to date using Tru-oil (although I have then added a further finish on top in some cases). So, while I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work with Danish Oil - it may not.
I used the method on this wonderful @GSPBASSES double cut. In fact, this was my first go - it was my own guitar so I knew I could gig it and make sure it was really going to work:
And this, Gibson LPJ - that used to be a white - for a semi-pro who I knew would be extensively gigging it (and would give me warts and all feedback):
And in both cases, the necks are stained too. And no - it doesn't wear off on your hands.
The method is based on @WezV 's slurry and buff technique, but the tweak is that I am basically slurrying tru-oil with hardened tru-oil rather than tru-oil with sanding dust.
Simple steps. I do the following:
1. sand to finish sanding quality. I don't use grain filler.
2. stain it (you know me, I generally still use fountain pen ink, although the LP did use some Chestnut Spirit stains)
3. apply a decent tru-oil coat and leave overnight
4. apply a second tru-oil coat and leave for 24 hours. These two coats are important, because these are the ones that will soak into the stained wood and 'seal' the stain
5. apply a third coat of tru-oil, using 400 - 800 edited 1000-2000 grit emery (or micro-web is good too) as with slurry and buff, except I am being GENTLE with it I am particularly careful at the edges and corners not to start sanding into the stain and wood. I just want to slurry the tru-oil above it!
6. wipe off like the early stages of slurry-and-buff but I don't buff yet. Leave overnight
7. repeat 2 or three times, finishing with a light buff of the final application
This is how it comes out - note on the cloth that yes, there is a touch of stain that has lifted with the slurry, but I have been very careful not to remove the stain enough to start seeing the wood colour itself:
Close up, you can see that the slightly-coloured tru-oil slurry has done a pretty good as a clear grain filler:
Here's the neck:
And although I sometimes then add another finish over the top (in the first picture of the finished guitar you can see that I've given the body a light gloss coat of Ronseal), I always leave the necks just buffed like the above with no extra finish. And I have never had one yet where the colour has come off onto mine of any other player's hand (and I do always ask!).
Finally - I've even realised that where I have caught an edge and the stain has lightened a touch, I can just sand that area down to the wood, add some more stain and then blend it all in with a mini-version of the same approach.
So - like all these things, I am sure that I've gained the little tweaks and techniques that my trials and experiments have taught me so would never say it's going to be a cinch and that anyone trying it out for themselves is guaranteed to have it work as well, but in terms of 'can it be done?', then yes...certainly it can.
after 3 weeks of DIY jobs on the house and garden with SWMBO .....
Finally came round to drilling the tailpiece stud holes on the Idigbo DC junior this morning after setting up the intonation and bridge position last night - only to find that the bushings are 11.6mm and the nearest brad bit I have is 12mm. Tested on some Idigbo scrap and they are too loose - definitely not a press in with the drill press situation... Damn.
cheers all.
You could line the stud holes with some veneer - even in just half a quarter of the circle, which would give you 0.6mm extra tightness.
Happy to send you a piece for nowt if no-one comes up with anything better. If so, just pm me your address.
Are the threads US or Metric? I can see what I have in my stock of anchors.